Wine notes
Thursday 18 March 2010
CHIANTI CLASSICO 2008 AND RISERVA 2007
The Consorzio of Chianti Classico showed mild optimism during last month's en primeur presentation of 2008 Chianti Classico and the 2007 Riserva wines in Florence. At the same time last year the Consorzio spoke of Chianti Classico as a 'fortress' that would well withstand the stormy economic weather, while this year Marco Pallanti, proprietor of Castello di Ama and current president of the Consorzio, spoke of a positive trend reversal in sales. Not known for lingering in the spotlight, Pallanti kept his speech very short to allow us, press and trade, to get on with the tasting of some 400 wines on show.Discussing the wines with international colleagues during the Collezione Chianti Classico, I discovered quite a few who admitted to struggling with the en primeur/anteprima concept. This was mostly based on the fact that they found it hard to assess wines at such an early stage, characterised as they are by upfront acidity and unsettled tannins. I must confess that I was quite suprised by some of these reactions, not least as most of the professional tasters present wouldn’t blink an eye at the prospect of tasting young bordeaux en primeur, taking exactly these factors into account.
Not only that, 2008 Chianti Classico normale showed wonderful freshness and savouriness, and I could easily imagine many of these wines going very well with a range of dishes. Provided the balance of these wines is right, it is relatively easy to see how they will develop. I felt that the normale had gained, if anything, in value, showing wines with good ageing potential and depth of flavour. In general the wines showed a clarity of fruit unblurred by stewed fruit character, which would turn up, unfortunately, later that same week in Brunellos from the less clement 2005 vintage. The 2007 Chianti Classico Riservas showed even better, with concentration and that all-important Spiel or play between an intense, sweet red fruit sensation cut through by lifting acidity and crunchy, stalky tannins. This vintage, at least on this quality level, should prove to be a real vin de garde.
That is not to say that quite a few samples didn’t show astringency and big bold dark fruit flavours, which I personally do not readily associate with the best Sangiovese can bring. More often than not in these cases, additions of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to the blend of indigenous varieties are to blame, and I can’t help but suspect that these two non-Tuscan varieties in particular are often employed to compensate for vineyards which, due to poor exposure or clones, won’t allow Sangiovese to shine on its own. This, in turn, means almost by definition a reduced focus on terroir, which the region has in spades, and a greater focus on results in the cellar. This may unfortunately only help to perpetuate the erroneous view that Sangiovese is a good, rather than a great, grape variety.
Wines are listed in the following groups, and then alphabetically by producer (sur)name within each group: Chianti Classico 2008, Chianti Classico 2007, Chianti Classico Riserva 2007, Chianti Classico Riserva 2006.
Alcohol levels given in brackets with a question mark were taken from the back label of cask samples, so they may not be totally accurate but they are a good estimate.
CHIANTI CLASSICO 2008
Badia a Coltibuono 2008 Chianti Classico 17 Drink 2011-2015
90% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo. Cask sample (14%?). Oenologist Maurizio Castelli. Medium, almost light crimson (Pinot Noir optic). Restrained, appealing, sweet cherry confiture and liquorice nose. Touch warm. Beautiful balanced by only a pinch of oak. Closed, brooding fruit. Soft finely grained tannin. Needs at least another year to open up, but very promising. (WS)
Barone Ricasoli, Brolio 2008 Chianti Classico 16.5 Drink 2010-2014
Mainly Sangiovese. Cask sample (13.5%?). Oenologists Carlo Ferrini and Marco Cerqua. Deep violet glass-staining crimson. Opulent, popular, almost jammy but undeniably Tuscan nose. Generous dark fruit lifted by acidity, making the tannins look a tad rustic at this stage. (WS)
Bibbiano 2008 Chianti Classico 16 Drink 2011-2013
95% Sangiovese, 5% Colorino. Cask sample. Oenologist Stefano Porcinai. Formerly advised by the legendary Giulio Gambello, Sangiovese’s oldest protagonist (and history seems to prove him right). Medium deep ruby, seems surprisingly mature for a cask sample, at least colour-wise. Dense sweet cherry and cherry cake nose. Sweet cherry-fruit palate balanced by stalky tannins. Very good length but tannins need time to integrate. (WS)
Bibbiano, Montornello 2008 Chianti Classico 16.5 Drink 2010-2015
100% Sangiovese. Cask sample. Oenologist Stefano Porcinai. Deeper than the Bibbiano, but similar mature optic. Generous, quite big, sweet red fruits and hints of fruit cake. More extract and power than previous, with persistent tannins but backed up by more substance. Seems already accessible. (WS)
Borgo Scopeto 2008 Chianti Classico 16 Drink 2011-2015
100% Sangiovese. Cask sample (13.5%?). Oenologist Simone Giunti. Deep crimson, with rim showing some development. Very sweet, round, open dark-fruit nose. Touch of oak only. Soft round fruit attack, which closes up on the finish. Fruit at this stage harnessed by perceptible and touch drying tannins, perhaps enhanced at this stage by the acidity. Ends a touch warm. Wants food. (WS)
Brancaia 2008 Chianti Classico 16.5 Drink 2010-2013
85% Sangiovese, 15% Merlot. Cask sample. Oenologists Barbara Kronenberg-Widmer and Carlo Ferrini. Medium deep crimson. Classic nose of dark fruit, cherry, spicy oak and a touch of tar. Stylish and well balanced, succulent dark fruit, with hints of vanilla and soft, bitter tannins. The hint of tar might indicate this is for relativly early enjoyment. (WS)
Carpineto 2008 Chianti Classico 15 Drink 2010-2013
80% Sangiovese, 20% Canaiolo. Cask sample. Giovanni C. Sacchet and Gabriele Lanett. Medium deep ruby with small rim which shows quick evolution Nose seems slightly medicinal and earthy. Quite shy on the fruit front. This is confirmed on the palate, which seems quite light and fruit seems a touch short to keep up with the slightly astringent tannins. (WS)
Casa al Vento, Aria 2008 Chianti Classico 14.5 Drink 2010-2013
Cask sample. Oenologist Stefano Chioccioli. Medium deep, youthful ruby. Meaty, savoury and sweet, almost touch farmyardy. Quite tight and compact, somewhat unapproachable and quite austere on the finish. Will this improve with bottle age? (WS)
Casa Emma 2008 Chianti Classico 15 Drink 2010-2014
100% Sangiovese. Cask sample (13.5%?). Oenologist Carlo Ferrini. Medium deep ruby with small but evolved rim. Subdued but spicy fruitcake nose. With air the nose shows soy sauce. Somewhat closed at this stage and certainly restrained on the palate. Bit of a chore to taste at this stage, with dominating, rustic tannins. Ends warm. Begs for food. (WS)
Casale dello Sparviero 2008 Chianti Classico 16.5 Drink 2011-2015
95% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo. Cask sample. Oenologist Attilio Pagli. Medium deep ruby, this already shows some ageing at the rim. Sweet, perfumed strawberry jam with underlying soft kitchen spice. Savoury, but somewhat closed palate with youthful, almost boisterous tannins. Old school but honest, deserves more age. (WS)
Castellare di Castellina 2008 Chianti Classico 16 Drink 2010-2014
95% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo. Cask sample (13.5%?). Oenologist Alessandro Cellai and Maurizio Castelli. Medium crimson with lighter rim. Sweet, savoury cherry nose with a hint of oriental spice. Earthy too. Round, almost fleshy fruit palate (the fruit seems to be subdued, or toned down by something that is round and shows some MLF notes ie creaminess) and rustic stalky tannins. But retains good overall balance. Good length too. (WS)
Castelli dei Grevepesa 2008 Chianti Classico 16 Drink 2011-2014
100% Sangiovese. Cask sample. Oenologists Stefano Mosele and Gabriela Tani. Deep ruby. Open knit, generous sweet strawberry jam. Catchy almost. Palate is much more focused, with structuring acidity and grainy tannins, promising some development over the next year or so. (WS)
Castellinuzza e Piuca 2008 Chianti Classico 16.5 Drink 2011-2015
90% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo. Cask sample (13%?). Oenologist Marco Chellini. From the 'Frazzione' of Lamole, a higher site within the commune of Greve, which is, among insiders, considered a true cru because of its higher altitude, resulting, at least in theory, in more elegant and longer lived wines. Medium deep, youthful ruby. Sweet nose, which at this stage seems a bit suppressed by farmyardy notes, but improves with air. High acidity seems to betray its high altitude, with there is real interest underneath with lurking fruit and savoury tannins. Opens up on the finish. Could be more polished to attract a larger public. (WS)
Castello delle Stinche, Antico Lamole Vigna Grospoli 2008 Chianti Classico 17 Drink 2011-2015
100% Sangiovese. Cask sample. Oenologist Federico Staderi. From Lamole. Medium deep crimson. Sweet, popular and almost jammy. A touch of spicy oak pulls it back in. The same with the high acidity, resulting in an attractive sweet-sour fruit sensation. No high flyer, but very attractive and genuine. (WS)
Castello di Bossi 2008 Chianti Classico 15.5 Drink 2010-2013
100% Sangiovese. Cask sample (13.5%?). Oenologist Alberto Antonini. Deep, and evolving ruby. Open, dense, sweet and almost international. Fruit struggles between being dense and compact, tied back by acidity and stalky tannins. Good length, but at this stage it looks like the fruit will probably mature faster than the structure. (WS)
Castello di Fonterutoli 2008 Chianti Classico 16.5? Drink 2010-2014
90% Sangiovese, 5% Merlot, 3% Colorino, 2% Malavsia Nera (one wonders why bother at all with 5% Merlot?). Cask sample (13.5%?). Oenologists Luca Biffi and Carlo Ferrini. Very dark crimson with violet rim. Herbal, almost medicinal, backward nose. With aeration sweet and concentrated with a hint of leather. There seems a touch of browning apple on the palate, suppressing the fruit, which is a shame as the wine shows great concentration and balance. Two different samples tasted, it could be be the cork batch, so the verdict is out on this one. (WS)
Castello di Monsanto 2008 Chianti Classico 15 Drink 2011-2014
90% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo, 5% Colorino. Cask sample (13.5%?). Oenologist Andrea Giovannini. Medium concentrated ruby. Sweet, rich cherry with earthy, almost farmyardy undertone, but attractive. Closed fruit palate, unwilling to show a lot. Persistent, stalky tannins. Has the real generosity been saved up for the Riserva? (WS)
Castello di Querceto 2008 Chianti Classico 16 Drink 2010-2014
92% Sangiovese, 8% Canaiolo. Cask sample (13%?). Oenologist Giovanni Cappeli. Very dark ruby, youthful. Lovely dark fruit, garden herbs and earth nose. Quite round fruit with balancing acidity. Finish is dominated by tannins, but fruit is quite persistent. Unsettled, so wait. (WS)
Castello di Verrazzano 2008 Chianti Classico 14.5 Drink 2010-2012
95% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo. Cask sample (13.5%?). Marco Chellini. Deep ruby, with orange reflexes in the rim. The nose seems also evolved, with herbal, almost liquorice-like fruit. The soft fruit palate seems to lack expression and lift, due to very soft acidity. Touch bitter on the finish. Inoffensive. (WS)
Castello di Volpaia 2008 Chianti Classico 16.5 Drink 2011-2015
90% Sangiovese, 5% Merlot, 5% Syrah. Cask sample. Oenologists Lorenzo Regoli and Riccardo Cotarella. Medium deep crimson. Sweet red fruit, spice and baked rhubarb pie. Attractive sweet sour red fruit and cherry palate with crunchy tannins. Very good length too. Fun to drink, will make a good dinner companion, but does it need the international suspect, really? (WS)
Vicchiomaggio, San Jacopo da Vicchiomaggio 2008 Chianti Classico 14.5 Drink 2010-2012
90% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo, 5% Colorino. Cask sample (13.5%?). Oenologists John Matta and staff. Medium concentrated ruby, with lighter rim. Earthy fruitcake nose, not overtly expressive. Same impression on the palate with quite light fruit, which could be a touch more concentrated to deal with the tannic structure. (WS)
Cecchi, Teuzzo 2008 Chianti Classico 14.5 Drink 2010-2012
90% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Cask sample (13.5%?). Oenologist Miria Bracali. Very dark, impenetrable ruby. Somewhat numb nose, with a touch of farmyard. Palate seems closed, but the balance seems struck with the acidity if less so with the persistent tannins. Will open up with an additional year. (WS)
Concadoro 2008 Chianti Classico 14.5 Drink 2010-2010
90% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo. Cask sample (14.5%?). Oenologist Marco Chellini. Evolved ruby. Herbal nose with sweet fruit hints and mustard. The palate only reluctantly shows some fruit, even more so on the mid palate. Ends on bitter tannins. (WS)
Le Fonti 2008 Chianti Classico 14.5 Drink 2010-2013
100% Sangiovese. Cask sample. Oenologist Paolo Caciorgna. From Poggibonsi. Medium deep, evolved ruby. Attractive sweet-sour cherry pie nose. On the palate the initial succulent fruit ends in quite soft, round and slightly inexpressive dark fruit with touch of creaminess from MLF. Medium length dominated by tannins. But there seems some potential for the wine to open up. (WS)
San Giusto a Rentennano 2008 Chianti Classico 15.5 Drink 2011-2013
95% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo. Cask sample (14%?). Oenologists Francesco Martini di Cigala and Attilio Pagli. Medium crimson showing some evolution on the rim. Open knit, popular, sweet and lifted nose. The palate seems somewhat less straightforward at this stage. Rustic tannins enforced by alcohol on the finish. But should make for a hearty wine. (WS)
Felsina Berardenga 2008 Chianti Classico 16 Drink 2010-2014
100% Sangiovese. Cask sample (13%?). Oenologist Franco Bernabei. Concentrated crimson, with the beginning of age on the rim. Medicinal opening, and reluctant to show fruit at this stage. But generous red fruit and cherry palate with lovely structuring acidity, which melts on the finish. Good balance and length. A somewhat rounder style of Chianti Classico. (WS)
Fietri 2008 Chianti Classico 14 Drink 2010-2013
85% Sangiovese, 15% Merlot. Cask sample. Oenologist Stefano Chioccioli. Medium-concentrated crimson. Very unusual, almost artificial sweet fruit pie and fruitcake, and cinnamon. Definitely the commercial model. Palate shows much more tension with uplifting acidity and rustic tannins. But fruit lacks a touch of concentration to stand up to the structure. Touch bitter on the finish. (WS)
Roberto Grassi, Montericcioli 2008 Chianti Classico 15 Drink 2011-2013
95% Sangiovese, 5% Merlot. Cask sample. Very deep crimson with violet reflexes. Quite pure cherry and cherry compote with notes of laurel. Closed compact palate, but finish shows good concentration. Touch bitter tannins on an alcoholic finish, and fairly moderate in acidity for the variety. Will open up. (WS)
I Fabbri, Terra di Lamole 2008 Chianti Classico 14.5 Drink 2012-2016
100% Sangiovese. Cask sample (13.5%?). Oenologist Marco Chellini. From Lamole from vineyards at 630 m. Medium concentrated crimson. Opens farmyardy. Practically closed on the nose. And completely closed on the palate too. Acidity doesn’t seem elevated for such high altitude, but tannins are persistent. Numb on the finish too. Wait. (WS)
Il Palagio 2008 Chianti Classico 15 Drink 2010-2013
95% Sangiovese, 5% Merlot. Cask sample (14%?). Oenologist Marco Chellini. Deep ruby with some development on the rim. Sweet-sour cherry nose, with a distinct herbal/vegetal note. Sweet lifted fruit palate seems to struggle at the finish to make its mark. Touch bitter tannins. (WS)
Isole e Olena 2008 Chianti Classico 17.5 Drink 2011-2015
80% Sangiovese, 15% Canaiolo, 5% Syrah. Cask sample. Oenologist Paolo de Marchias. Medium-deep ruby. Forthright, open and fruit driven nose with immediate appeal. Quite pure red fruit palate too, pushed further by juice acidity, well balanced with persistent but fine tannins. Closes up on the finish, but shows great potential. Being one of the undisputed leaders, one can only wonder why do they persist in adding Syrah to the blend, especially when Sangiovese seems to be in such knowledgeable hands? (WS)
Le Fonti 2008 Chianti Classico 14.5 Drink 2010-2013
95% Sangiovese, 5% Merlot. Cask sample. Oenologist Stefano Chioccioli. Panzano. Deep crimson. Red fruit and earthy iron notes. Fairly simple but honest fruit on the palate, with medium length. Unproblematic and probably what the average Chianti drinker expects. (WS)
Monte Bernardi, Retromarcia 2008 Chianti Classico 16.5 Drink 2010-2014
95% Sangiovese, 5% Merlot. Cask sample (13.5%?). Oenologist Michael Schmelzer. The second wine of Monte Bernardi. Medium deep, youthful ruby. Balsamic, spicy and savoury nose, somewhat closed on fruit at this stage. The palate makes more than up for this with lifted, succulent cherry fruit and crunchy tannins. Refreshing and elegant. New School, which should not suffer from giving up on the Merlot content. (WS)
Monteraponi 2008 Chianti Classico 16.5 Drink 2010-2013
95% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo. Cask sample. Oenologist Maurizio Castelli. Medium concentrated ruby with signs of development in the rim. Earthy, herbal with savoury notes with brooding dark fruit. Strikes very good balance between fruit sweetness and acidity ands crunchy tannins. Closes up on the finish. Old school but with class. (WS)
La Capella 2008 Chianti Classico 16 Drink 2010-2013
90% Sangiovese, 10% Merlot. Cask sample. Consultant Luca d’Atoma. Medium concentrated crimson, violet reflexes. Opulent fruitcake and cherry, and dried fruit impressions (is this the Merlot?), almost baked apple. But refreshing acidity on a red and dark fruit palate. Good balance too. Tight finish, needs time. (WS)
Terreno 2008 Chianti Classico 14.5 Drink 2010-2012
90% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo. Cask sample. Oenologist Paolo Vagaggini and Francesco Rapisarta-Haniez. Deep ruby with first signs of development on the rim. Very unusual. Initially sauerkraut, evolving into cherry. Cherry fruit palate with nutty notes. quite astringent. (WS)
Poggio Bonelli 2008 Chianti Classico 15 Drink 2010-2013
90% Sangiovese, 5% Merlot, 5% Colorino. Cask sample (14%?). Oenologist Leonardo Pini and Carlo Ferrini. Medium-deep ruby showing some signs of development on the rim. Soft sweet-sour red fruit nose with vegetal undertones. Spicy fruit of medium length. Touch nondescript. Certainly not overachieving. (WS)
Poggiopiano 2008 Chianti Classico 14.5 Drink 2010-2013
100% Sangiovese. Cask sample (14.5%?). Oenologists Attilio Pagli and Valentino Ciarla. Medium concentrated ruby. Seems a bit musty and alcoholic. Lively fruit underlined with stalky tannins, and soft bitter finish. (WS)
Querciabella 2008 Chianti Classico 16 Drink 2010-2013
95% Sangiovese, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Cask sample. Oenologist Guido de Santi. Medium deep crimson. Softly perfumed, spicy fruitcake and cherry nose. Generous, sweet, almost jammy fruit, but crunchy tannins and lifting acidity kick in at the finish. Good length. Popular. (WS)
Renzo Marinai 2008 Chianti Classico 15.5 Drink 2010-2013
90% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Cask sample (13%?). Oenologist Giovanni Cappelli. Deep, youthful ruby. Horse saddle and sweet-sour fruit compote with savoury notes. The style seems to have evolved to a more refreshing, lifting, and less rich palate, although this still includes 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. (WS)
Rignana 2008 Chianti Classico 15.5 Drink 2010-2013
85% Sangiovese, 15% Canaiolo. Cask sample (14.5%?). Oenologists Giulio Gambelli and Paoli Salvi. Deep ruby with the first signs of development on the rim. Restrained nose showing kitchen spice, cumin. It has a lurking perfumed quality that doesn’t come to the fore yet. Same reluctance on the palate showing soft creamy MLF notes, and shy cherry on a rustic, tannic finish. Genuine. (WS)
Rocca delle Macie 2008 Chianti Classico 15.5 Drink 2010-2012
95% Sangiovese, 5% Merlot. Cask sample. Oenologist Giuseppe Caviola. Concentrated, medium ruby. Sweet, compote-like fruit with an earthy, dried-fruit undertone. The palate is completely the opposite with high acidity underpinning red fruit, and somewhat unsettled tannins at this stage. Should make an attractive, short-term drink. (WS)
Rocca di Montegrossi 2008 Chianti Classico 16 Drink 2010-2013
90% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo, 5% Colorino. Cask sample (13.5%). Oenologist Attilio Pagli. Youthful ruby. Very sweet, almost jammy nose. With aeration, more fruit definition. Definitely popular. Sweet, generous, almost confected fruit palate, but with sour bite on the finish. Should be appealing to most. (WS)
Ruffino, Santedame 2008 Chianti Classico 15 Drink 2010-2012
80% Sangiovese, 15% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Cask sample. Oenologists Gabriele Tacconi and Alessandro Chinello. Deep ruby. Dark fruit and hints of baked apple. The palate is more invigorating. Not amazingly long. (WS)
Arceno 2008 Chianti Classico 14.5 Drink 2010-2012
80% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. Cask sample. Oenologists Lawrence Cronin and Pierre Seillan. Medium crimson. Not entirely clean on the nose (musty), a touch alcoholic, with cassis and cherry notes. High acidity counteracts sweet fruit, which at this stage is subdued. Will develop, unless astringent tannins take over. (WS)
Villa Trasqua 2008 Chianti Classico 14.5 Drink 2010-2013
95% Sangiovese, 2% Colorino, 2% Malvasia Nera, 1% Canaiolo. Cask sample. Oenologist Stefano Chioccioli. Medium ruby with the first signs of development on the rim. Cherry compote and herb liqueur. Sweet, round, rich with herb liqueur finish. Slightly biting alcohol on the finish and big tannins. Lacks elegance. (WS)
Terrabianca 2008 Chianti Classico 15.5 Drink 2010-2012
97% Sangiovese, 3% Canaiolo. Oenologist Vittorio Fiore. Attractive deep ruby with some maturation. Cassis and cherry liqueur nose with hints of blackcurrant leaves. Distinct cassis palate. Should appeal to the masses, also because of its refreshing acidity. (WS) 13.5%
Val delle Corti 2008 Chianti Classico 16.5 Drink 2010-2013
95% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo. Cask sample. Oenologist Sean O’Callaghan. Light ruby with violet reflexes. Heady dark fruit and earth nose. Earthy impression lingers on the high acidity palate. Angular. Difficult to forecast its development, but lingering finish seems to bode well for the future. (WS)
Vallone di Cecione 2008 Chianti Classico 16 Drink 2010-2012
90% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Cask sample. Oenologist Alessandro Fusi. Deep crimson. Very young nose with MLF notes. Seems so unsettled, it is almost unfair to review it. Very sweet, very rich fruit. Rustic, stalky but not unripe tannins giving good contrast to the fruit sweetness. Seems to have lots of extract, but with relatively modest acidity, making it quite a big wine. Good persistence on the finish. For an international market? (WS)
Vignavecchia 2008 Chianti Classico 15.5 Drink 2010-2013
90% Sangiovese, 10% Merlot. Cask sample. Oenologist Federico Staderini. Dark ruby. Appealing cherry nose with a mineral note. Well balanced, but ends quite compact and restrained. Wait. (WS)
Villa Cafaggio 2008 Chianti Classico 16 Drink 2010-2014
100% Sangiovese. Cask sample. Oenologist Stefano Chioccioli. Very deep and dark crimson. Subdued but hints of sweet dark fruits. Hallmark persistent tannins, but seem less massive, more refined than in the past. Fairly modest acidity, this wine seems to aim for a wide audience. Quite compact still, but will open up. (WS)
Villa Calcinaia 2008 Chianti Classico 16 Drink 2010-2013
90% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo. Cask sample. Oenologist Federico Staderini. Medium deep crimson. A reluctant, closed nose, and equally reluctant palate. On the finish the wine wakes up, and shows good concentration and integrated acidity. Surprisingly lingering after taste, despite persistent tannic frame. (WS)
CHIANTI CLASSICO 2007
This category at the Collezione Chianti Classico consisted mostly of single-vineyard wines (which are actually of Riserva quality) as well as en primeur releases from estates that prefer to hold on to their wines longer than is the norm.
Barone Ricasoli, Castello di Brolio 2007 Chianti Classico 16.5 Drink 2010-2014
Sangiovese with (unspecified) portions of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in the blend. Oenologists Carlo Ferriniand Marco Cerqua. Very deep dark crimson. At first herbal, but opens up with aeration. This definitely needs decanting. Lovely dense fruit palate with sweet sour impression and crunchy tannins. Fruit seems a touch muted on the finish. well made, and should be very popular.(WS) 14%
Salcetino 2007 Chianti Classico 15.5 Drink 2010-2012
95% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo. Oenologist Andrea Dominutti. Medium-deep ruby with orange reflexes. Sweet opulent, and hints of candied fruit. Much gentler on the palate with a rash development on the finish. (WS) 13%
Candialle 2007 Chianti Classico 16 Drink 2010-2013
97% Sangiovese, 3% Petit Verdot. Oenologist Vittorio Fiore. Deep ruby, with first signs of age. Quite sweet with fruitcake notes and hints of spicy oak. Lots of sweet-sour interplay on the palate, to only disappoint slightly in length. Young vines? (WS) 14%
Casale dello Sparviero, Vigna Paronza 2007 Chianti Classico 17 Drink 2010-2015
100% Sangiovese. Cask sample. Oenologist Attilio Pagli. Very deep ruby, Bordeaux-lookalike. Very unusual, very pure forest-strawberry nose. Concentrated strawberry and cherry with crunch and lift. Definitely old school, but with potential. (WS)
Casaloste 2007 Chianti Classico 15.5 Drink 2010-2012
85% Sangiovese, 15% Merlot. Oenologists Giovanni Battista d’Orsi and Gabriela Tani. Concentrated ruby with some orange reflexes. Meaty, savoury opening. Quite soft fruit palate. Easy going, without highs or lows. (WS) 13.5%
Rocca di Castagnoli 2007 Chianti Classico 16.5 Drink 2010-2013
90% Sangiovese, 5% Merlot, 5% Syrah. Oenologist Martin Froelich. From Castellina. Organic. Medium deep ruby starting to light up. Earthy, sweet with distinct minerally notes, and hints of Morrocan leather. Lots of concentration and succulence here, but the finish seems a touch oak dominated. Very lively, though. (WS) 14%
Castellinuzza e Piuca 2007 Chianti Classico 15.5 Drink 2010-2012
100% Sangiovese. Oenologist Marco Chellini. Medium-concentrated ruby with some development on the rim. Very sweet, this is all fruit on the nose. No sign of oak. Lively palate, but not very concentrated, hence alcohol shows up. Lacks a bit of stuffing. (WS) 13.5%
Castello della Paneretta 2007 Chianti Classico 17 Drink 2010-2013
90% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo. Oenologist Nicola Berti. Medium-deep ruby with the first signs of age. Serious and brooding dark fruit and spice nose. On the palate lovely bite as well as strawberry and juicy cherryfruit. Carries its alcohol effortlessly. (WS) 14.5%
Castello delle Stinche, Vigna Grospoli 2007 Chianti Classico 16 Drink 2010-2013
100% Sangiovese. Cask sample. Oenologist Federico Staderini. Quite mature-looking medium-concentrated ruby. Very sweet strawberry jam and nutmeg. With depth. At this stage subdued on the finish, but lots of extract. One wishes only for a little lift of acidity. (WS)
Castello di Bossi 2007 Chianti Classico 16 Drink 2010-2013
100% Sangiovese. Oenologist Alberto Antonini. Mature-looking ruby. International nose of concentrated fruit and hints of oak and fruit cake. But there is something undeniably Tuscan about it as well. International appeal on the palate as well, with lots of sweet fruit contrasted by stalky tannins and long finish. A crowd pleaser. (WS) 13.5%
Castello di Meleto 2007 Chianti Classico 15.5 Drink 2010-2012
90% Sangiovese, 10% Merlot. Oenologist Federico Cerelli and Stefano Chioccioli. Deep, concentrated ruby. Sweet but subdued nose. Very mellow fruit palate, revived by acidity shot through the red fruit. Persistent tannins but enough fruit to withstand. (WS) 13.5%
Concadoro, Vigna di Gaversa 2007 Chianti Classico 15.5 Drink 2010-2012
85% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. Oenologist Marco Chellini. Dark, youthful looking ruby. Sweet jammy fruit and hints of baked apple, indicating overly fast development? There is some succulent fruit on the palate with crunchy tannins and just enough lift. Quite nice, without blowing one away. (WS) 14%
Dievole, La Vendemmia 2007 Chianti Classico 14.5 Drink 2010-2012
90% Sangiovese, 5% Colorino, 5% Canaiolo. Oenologists Santo Gozzo and Simone Anselmi. Medium-concentrated ruby starting to show some age. Very closed. Herbal nose. The wine doesn’t open up on the palate either. Strangely nondescript on the finish. Touch bitter. Perhaps this needs time? (WS) 13.5%
Montemaggio 2007 Chianti Classico 16 Drink 2010-2013
95% Sangiovese, 5% Merlot. Oenologist Andrea Paoletti. Medium-concentrated ruby. Sweet jammy nose with hints of spice and touch of bacon. Quite sweet and rich palate, with mellow, dense fruit. Lots of extract, but seems to lack a bit of personality? (WS) 14.5%
Nittardi, Casanuova di Nittardi 2007 Chianti Classico 17 Drink 2010-2014
97% Sangiovese, 3% Canaiolo. Oenologist Carlo Ferrini. Concentrated ruby with orange reflexes in the rim. Hugely attractive nose of sour cherry and nutmeg. Enticing sweet-sour fruit palate with lots of interest. Very long. (WS) 13%
Fontodi 2007 Chianti Classico 17 Drink 2011-2014
100% Sangiovese. Oenologist Giovanni Manetti. Medium-deep ruby. Subdued and understated. Same on the palate, seems still very youthful. Extremely well balanced with invigorating acidity, coating tannins and subdued but long finish. This needs more time. (WS) 14.5%
Isole e Olena 2007 Chianti Classico 16.5 Drink 2010-2015
80% Sangiovese, 15% Canaiolo, 5% Syrah. Oenologist Paolo De Marchi. Medium-deep ruby with orange reflexes. Somewhat closed with herbal notes. Lively acidity pushes forth a sweet fruit palate. Seems a tad closed at this stage. (WS) 14%
Lamole di Lamole, Blu 2007 Chianti Classico 15.5 Drink 2010-2012
80% Sangiovese, 10% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Oenologist Loris Vazzoler. Bordeaux lookalike ruby with orange reflexes. Soft red fruit notes with hint of vanilla. Quite full bodied and sweet. Crowd pleaser but lacks a touch of lift.(WS) 13.5%
Le Cinciole 2007 Chianti Classico 16.5 Drink 2010-2013
98% Sangiovese, 2% Canaiolo. Oenologist Stefano Chioccioli. Crimson with the beginning of orange reflexes. Closed on the nose, showing some incense-like notes. Somewhat subdued on the palate too. Full-bodied sensation. Very nice coating tannins. Will need more time but has the stuffing. (WS) 13.5%
Monte Bernardi 2007 Chianti Classico 17.5 Drink 2010-2015
95% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo. Oenologist Michael Schmelzer. Deep ruby with just the beginning of age on the rim. Very refined, perfumed nose, with amazing depth. Very poised. Very fine, gentle softly fruity palate too, framed by grainy tannins. Impressive in its elegance and with lots of potential. Sangiovese at its best. (WS) 13.5%
CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA 2007
Agricoltori del Chianti Geografico, Montegiachi Riserva 2007 Chianti Classico 14 Drink 2010-2010
95% Sangiovese, 5% Colorino and Merlot. Oenologist Lorenzo Landi. Deep, medium-concentrated ruby. Popular and slightly stewed fruit nose. Sweet palate too, with dried fruit notes. Quite soft, with rustic tannins. Drink now. (WS) 14%
Badia a Coltibuono, Riserva 2007 Chianti Classico 16.5 Drink 2010-2016
90% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo. Cask sample (14.5%?). Oenologist Maurizio Castelli. Medium-concentrated ruby with broad rim showing the beginning of orange reflexes. Elegant nose of dark fruit, hints of earth and cigar box. More austere on the palate, with grainy tannins, but very good overall balance. Not amazingly complex, but may gain in time. (WS) 14.5%
Barone Ricasoli, Rocca Guicciardi Riserva 2007 Chianti Classico 16.5 Drink 2010-2014
Sangiovese with 'complementing' (sic) grape varieties. Oenologists Carlo Ferrini and Marco Cerqua. Dark ruby, still youthful looking. Ripe, plummy fruit and kitchen spice, and perhaps a hint of undergrowth and saddle. Ripe and fragrant fruit contrasted by grainy, persistent tannins. Length indicates potential. (WS) 13.5%
Bibbiano, Vigna del Capannino Riserva 2007 Chianti Classico 15.5 Drink 2010-2013
100% Sangiovese. Cask sample. Oenologist Stefano Porcinai. Youthful dark ruby. Open and accessible nose of dark fruits and fruitcake. Similar impressions on the palate, without being overtly complex. Warm finish enforces tannic impression. (WS)
Capannelle, Riserva 2007 Chianti Classico 16.5 Drink 2010-2013
90% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo, 5% Colorino. Cask sample. Oenologist Simone Monciati. Very deep, concentrated ruby. Dark evolving ruby with orange reflexes. Quite complex sweet nose with well integrated oak, and quite restraint for this flamboyant estate. Compact fruit palate with succulent lift, and crunchy tannins, which at this stage determine the finish. More to come. (WS)
Casa al Vento, Foho Riserva 2007 Chianti Classico 15 Drink 2010-2013
90% Sangiovese, 10% Merlot. Cask sample. Oenologist Stefano Chioccioli. Deep ruby showing the beginning of age. Earthy, spicy fruitcake and hint of leather. Fairly simple, uncomplicated. (WS)
Casa Emma, Riserva 2007 Chianti Classico 16 Drink 2010-2014
95% Sangiovese, 5% Malvasia Nera. Oenologist Carlo Ferrini. Very dark, almost opaque ruby. Very open, round, mature, with plummy, spicy fruit, notes of liquorice and spice. Very appealing on the palate too, with sweet dark fruits offset by austere grainy tannins. ends warm. A crowd pleaser, no doubt. (WS) 14%
Casale dello Sparviero, Riserva 2007 Chianti Classico 16.5 Drink 2010-2015
100% Sangiovese. Cask sample. Oenologist Attilio Pagli. Deep ruby, small rim with the beginning or orange. Generous, soft round fruit nose with just a hint of dark chocolate, tar and cherry. Similar round, gentle fruit spiked with stalky tannins. Great length. Well made old-school style. (WS)
Castellinuzza e Piuca, Riserva 2007 Chianti Classico 16 Drink 2010-2014
100% Sangiovese. Oenologist Marco Chellini. Medium-deep ruby with orange reflexes in broad rim. Dark fruit and herbs opening. Lovely strawberry fruit followed by stalky tannins. Acidity kicks in on the finish. Elegant fruit closes up on the finish, but it looks like there is more to come. (WS) 13.5%
Castello di Meleto, Vigna Poggiarso Riserva 2007 Chianti Classico 16 Drink 2010-2015
100% Sangiovese. Oenologist Federico Cerelli and Stefano Chioccioli. Beautiful deep ruby with tiny orange rim. Bags of red and dark fruit compote here. Looks international, also on the palate. Good length with a persistent layer of grainy tannins. Keep. (WS)
Castello di Monsanto, Riserva 2007 Chianti Classico 16 Drink 2011-2014
90% Sangiovese, 5% Colorino, 5% Canaiolo. Oenologist Andrea Giovannini. Deep and still quite youthful ruby. Evolved nose with ripe dark fruits and a touch of tar. Compact if appealing. Quite elegant palate, but the compact red fruit struggles with astringent tannins on the finish at this stage. However, there seems potential for the fruit to open up more. (WS)
Castello di Volpaia, Riserva 2007 Chianti Classico 15.5 Drink 2010-2013
100% Sangiovese. Cask sample. Oenologists Lorenzo Regoli and Riccardo Cotarella. Very deep, almost impenetrable ruby. Very small rim only just starting to evolve. Very attractive with sweet red fruits perfectly balanced by oak. Definitely appealing and modern. On the palate the oak treatment seems to have compromised the fruit as the wine ends astringent. This astringency dominates the entire finish. Food would do wonders. (WS)
Castello di Volpaia, Coltassala Riserva 2007 Chianti Classico 16.5 Drink 2012-2016
95% Sangiovese, 5% Mammolo. Cask sample. Oenologists Lorenzo Regoli and Riccardo Cotarella. Deep dark ruby, with very small, lighter rim. Seductive cherry nose with sweet spice and oak notes. By contrast the palate shows good extract, but tannins are all over the place. Still, genuine. (WS)
Casuccio Tarletti, Campoalto Riserva 2007 Chianti Classico 15? Drink 2011-2010
100% Sangiovese. Oenologist Fabrizio Thomas. Medium-concentrated ruby with broad rim showing first signs of age. Firmly closed at first. Earthy cherry and strawberry hints and a touch of bacon. Extremely compact and backward on the palate too. Firm tannins and hints of liquorice on a closed finish. Difficult to assess. (WS) 13.5%
Cecchi, Riserva della Famiglia Riserva 2007 Chianti Classico 14.5 Drink 2010-2012
90% Sangiovese, 10% Colorino. Oenologist Miria Bracali. Medium crimson. Closed on the nose and closed on the palate. Inert and somewhat charmless. (WS) 13.5%
San Giusto a Rentennano, Le Baroncole Riserva 2007 Chianti Classico 17 Drink 2011-2016
97% Sangiovese, 3% Canaiolo. Cask sample (14.5%?). Oenologists Francesco Martini di Cigala and Attilio Pagli. Medium-deep ruby with small orange tinged rim. The nose strikes a very good balance between oak, ripe cherry and plummy fruit. Also hints of undergrowth and tar. There is austerity on the palate, promising more for the future. Very long with lasting fruit as well structure. Wait. (WS) 14.5%
Felsina, Riserva 2007 Chianti Classico 16 Drink 2010-2013
100% Sangiovese. Oenologist Franco Bernabei. Concentrated ruby starting to mature. Quite catchy, if at first somewhat dusty oak fruit nose. Round fruit rolls over the tongue interrupted by elevated acidity. Good length, though, but no overachiever. (WS) 13.5%
La Madonnina, Riserva 2007 Chianti Classico 14.5 Drink 2010-2012
90% Sangiovese, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot. Oenologists Luca Triacca and Vittorio Fiore. Medium deep ruby, rim showing some beginning of orange reflexes. Understated but sweet nose. Palate is slightly less exciting with soft, somewhat nondescript fruit and bitter tannins, this impression is augmented by the alcoholic finish. (WS) 13.5%
La Sala, Riserva 2007 Chianti Classico 16.5 Drink 2010-2015
100% Sangiovese. Oenologist Gabriella Tani. Very dark ruby. Marked by posh oak and mint, cherry and fruitcake. Attractive, nevertheless. Succulent, almost rich cherry and plum fruit, supported by crunchy tannins. Very good length. Generous. (WS) 14%
Monteraponi, Il Campitello Riserva 2007 Chianti Classico 17 Drink 2010-2015
90% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo, 5% Colorino. Cask sample. Oenologist Maurizio Castelli. Medium deep ruby with broader rim showing signs of age. At first reluctant nose, shyly opening up to strawberry jam. Minerally, almost iron-like note. Very young and taut on the palate, with sweet strawberry and candied fruit, and coating, persistent tannins on a long finish. This should age very well. (WS)
Poggio al Sole, Casasilia Riserva 2007 Chianti Classico 15 Drink 2010-2013
100% Sangiovese. Cask sample. Oenologist Johannez Davaz. Deep ruby, quite impressive colour. Almost formulaic nose with maraschino cherry, fruitcake, the merest hint of cassis and notes of oak and tobacco. Quite lively dark and cherry fruits and stewed notes. Quite pleasant, with stalky rustic tannins. (WS) 14.5%
Poggio Torselli, Riserva 2007 Chianti Classico Faulty Drink 2010-2010
100% Sangiovese. Cask sample. Oenologists Vittorio Fiore and Massimo Cresti. Deep ruby with orange reflexes on the rim. Vegetal and what looks like oxidised (two different samples tasted). Vegetal and browning apple too. Bottling problem? (WS)
CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA 2006
Casaloste, Don Vincenzo Riserva 2006 Chianti Classico 15.5 Drink 2011-2014
95% Sangiovese, 5% Merlot. Oenologists Giovanni Battista d’Orsi and Gabriella Tani. Crimson, just starting to evolve at the rim. Restraint and a touch medicinal. Brooding fruit and a hint of oatmeal. Great reluctance of fruit on the palate and, at this stage, lots of tannins dominating the finish. May need more time, but will never be the most generous of wines. (WS) 13.5%
Castellare di Castellina, Riserva 2006 Chianti Classico 14.5 Drink 2010-2012
95% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo. Oenologists Alessandro Cellai and Maurizio Castelli. Deep crimson, with only just the beginning of age. Dried-fruit nose with the merest suggestion of baked apple. Linear fruit, not an enormous lot of charm here. (WS) 13.5%
Castello della Paneretta, Riserva 2006 Chianti Classico 16.5 Drink 2010-2015
90% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo. Oenologist Fabio Albisetti. Attractive medium ruby. Intriguing nose of herbs, cherry and black currant leaves. Sweet fruit attack, followed by lovely succulent fruit harnessed by powdery, grippy tannins. Good length, will certainly benefit from additional cellaring. (WS) 13.5%
Castello di Bossi, Bernardo Riserva 2006 Chianti Classico 16 Drink 2010-2014
100% Sangiovese. Oenologist Alberto Antonini. Very dark ruby with orange reflexes in very small rim. Subdued nose of earthy, plummy fruit and cherry, and a hint of tobacco. Viscous mouthful of fruit followed by stalky tannins. Will mellow out with age. Good complexity and balance. Good food partner. (WS) 14%
Castello di Meleto, Vigna Casi Riserva 2006 Chianti Classico 16.5 Drink 2010-2014
85% Sangiovese, 15% Merlot. Oenologists Federico Cerelli and Stefano Chioccioli. Deep crimson. Popular , rich dark fruit, fruitcake and spicy oak nose. Concentrated and dense on the attack, pulled in by stalky tannin and lifting acidity. Very good length. (WS) 14%
Castello di Monsanto, Il Poggio Riserva 2006 Chianti Classico 16.5 Drink 2011-2015
90% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo, 5% Colorino. Cask sample. Andrea Giovannini. Deep, medium concentrated ruby, with orange reflexes. Maturing, if somewhat backward nose with dark and dried fruit character and tarry notes. Initally very sweet on the attack, this evolves quickly into fragrant cherry fruit with fierce but not overpowering tannins. Very good length, which starts to become complex. Inspite of the hefty tannins, it still seemd balanced, if not integrated yet. Traditionalist style. Wait. (WS) 14%
Vicchiomaggio, La Prima Riserva 2006 Chianti Classico 15 Drink 2010-2013
100% Sangiovese. Oenologists John Matta and staff. Deep Bordeaux-like ruby. Stewed fruit, fruitcake, and strawberry jam. Sweet and concentrated, a bit one dimensional. Stalky tannins on the finish perk it up. Ends warm. (WS) 14%
Vicchiomaggio, Gustavo Petri Riserva 2006 Chianti Classico 15 Drink 2010-2013
80% Sangiovese, 20% Merlot. Cask sample. Oenologists John Matta and staff. Very dark crimson, almost opaque. Tiny rim with orange reflexes. Dense, maturing nose, with dark fruit and note of candied orange peel, this wine will look already mature upon release, but perhaps this is the style the estate aims for. The palate confirms this impression with soft, ripe, and very approachable. Drinking well now, so it is intriguing why it hasn’t been bottled earlier? (WS)
Dievole, Novecento Riserva 2006 Chianti Classico 14.5 Drink 2010-2012
90% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo, 5% Colorino. Oenologists Santo Gozzo and Simone Anselmi. Very dark ruby with orange reflexes in tiny rim. Old-fashioned nose of fruitcake and fruit steeped in alcohol. Livelier palate, but without greast interest. Depending on the price this looks like it is aiming at masses. (WS) 14%
Dievole, Dieulele Riserva 2006 Chianti Classico 14 Drink 2010-2012
95% Sangiovese, 3% Colorino, 2% Canaiolo. Oenologists Santo Gozzi and Simone Anselmi. Even darker, with orange-tinged rim. Stewed, raisiny fruit with round fruitcake style palate. Ends quite dry and sudden. (WS)
Montemaggio, Riserva 2006 Chianti Classico 15 Drink 2010-2013
100% Sangiovese. Oenologist Andrea Paoletti. Maturing, medium-deep ruby. Earthy, with tobacco notes, tar and mineral and lurking plum fruit. Sweet, concentrated fruit with lifting acidity, and stalky tannins. Looks slightly tired? (WS) 14%
Nittardi, Riserva 2006 Chianti Classico 16.5 Drink 2010-2014
95% Sangiovese, 5% Merlot. Oenologist Carlo Ferrini. Deep, youthful ruby. Opens with oriental spice and dried cherry. Intense, almost jammy fruit with only the merest suggestion of oak on the finish. Well balanced, hugely popular style. (WS) 13.5%
Fontodi, Vigna del Sorbo Riserva 2006 Chianti Classico 16.5 Drink 2010-2014
90% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Oenologist Franco Bernabei. Deep crimson, rim just starting to lighten. Heady, sweet cherry-liqueur nose. Ripe, concentrated, almost intense sweet fruit lifted by juicy acidity. Coating tannins. Well balanced. A bigger, international style of Chianti Classico. (WS) 14.5%
Lamole di Lamole, Riserva 2006 Chianti Classico 15 Drink 2010-2012
100% Sangiovese. Oenologist Loris Vazzoler. Medium-concentrated ruby, with rim just beginning to show some orange. Canned cherries and strawberries. Quite sweet initially on the palate. No real highs or lows here. (WS) 13.5%
Lamole di Lamole, Vigneto Campolungo Riserva 2006 Chianti Classico 15 Drink 2010-2012
85% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. Oenologist Loris Vazzoler. Deep crimson. Intense strawberry jam and cherry pie with earthy notes. Rich and sweet on the attack, long and concentrated, grainy tannins giving much needed contrast, but without great depth and seemed to lack a bit of focus. (WS) 14%
Le Cinciole, Petresco Riserva 2006 Chianti Classico 16.5 Drink 2010-2014
100% Sangiovese. Oenologist Stefano Chioccioli. Medium-concentrated ruby. Lovely maturing nose of fruit and oak. Some tarry notes pop up, adding to the multilayered impression. Palate seems quite young and subdued, but there is lots of concentration here as well as balance. This is structured more by acidity than by tannin. (WS) 13.5%
Monteraponi, Baron'Ugo Riserva 2006 Chianti Classico 17 Drink 2010-2015
90% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo, 5% Colorino. Cask sample. Oenologist Maurizio Castelli. Medium-deep ruby, with broad rim displaying orange reflexes. Old-school nose with cherry liqueur notes, tobacco and a hint of cinnamon bark. Sweet sour interplay of fruit and acidity and well-handled tannins, giving it a savoury feel. Very long and enjoyable. (WS)
Principe Corsini, Le Corti Cortevecchia Riserva 2006 Chianti Classico 15 Drink 2010-2013
95% Sangiovese, 3% Colorino, 2% Canaiolo. Oenologists Carlo Ferrini and Giuseppe Lucido. Concentrated ruby with orange reflexes. Appealing sweet, dark fruit compote and a touch of nutmeg and liquorice. Rich and sweet attack, but fades away on the middle to return at the end with hints of dried fruit. (WS) 13%
Renzo Marinai, Riserva 2006 Chianti Classico 15 Drink 2010-2013
85% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. Oenologist Giovanni Cappelli. Impenetrable, almost black, immediately suggesting addition of Merlot and/or Cabernet Sauvignon to the blend. Already quite developed, with tobacco and tarry notes and intense sweet dark fruit. Same international approach on the palate with bags of sweet fruit and low acidity. Could be anything, if anything rich and concentrated. (WS) 13.5%
Riecine, Riserva 2006 Chianti Classico 16.5 Drink 2010-2014
100% Sangiovese. Oenologist Sean O’Gallaghan. Deep ruby with broader rim showing orange reflexes. Posh, refined dried cherry nose with cigar box hints. Animating, sour-cherry palate with ripe, crunchy tannins. Well balanced and accessible without being one dimensional. (WS) 14%
Rignana, Riserva 2006 Chianti Classico 15.5 Drink 2010-2014
85% Sangiovese, 15% Merlot. Oenologists Giulio Gambelli and Paolo Salvi. Very dark ruby. Subdued, tarry fruit and liquorice opening. The wine seems quite mature already. On the palate round, loosely knotted dark fruit. Could perhaps do with a little bit more freshness. (WS) 14.5%
Villa Cafaggio, Riserva 2006 Chianti Classico 16.5 Drink 2010-2014
100% Sangiovese. Oenologist Stefano Chioccioli. Medium-concentrated dark ruby, with small orange rim. Appealing if very sweet, and ripe, with hints of earth and tar. Palate shows more age with tobacco and almost confected cherry. Bouncing acidity gets to grips with the fruit sweetness, but end completely dry. Impressive, if monolithic. (WS) 14%