Wine notes
Thursday 25 November 2010
DOLCETTO – PIEMONTE'S NEXT STAR?
Dolcetto, Piemonte's workhorse grape, has until now provided the region with early-ripening, easy-drinking reds. These characteristics have kept it firmly in the shadow of Nebbiolo, the grape of Barolo and Barbaresco.
Dolcetto is universally known as producing deep violet-coloured wines, with abundant aromas of red crushed fruit, violets and with a distinct drying spur of tannin, and it is, most importantly, very modestly priced. The variety is considered much less demanding than Nebbiolo, which needs, and gets, the very best exposure in the vineyard, while Dolcetto happily retreats to the sites where Nebbiolo's famous tannins would never fully ripen. As it ripens much earlier than Piemonte's signature grape, it is not only a very accommodating variety in the vineyard, but also in the cellar. By the time Nebbiolo is ready to to be harvested, Dolcetto's fermentation has long finished, leaving the tanks available for the most important harvest of the year, which starts in late October.
Although the grape's name indicates sweetness, this in reality is no reflection of the characteristics of the final wine, which is completely dry, and, very Piemontese, with a clear tannic structure. The name apparently refers to the actual taste of the berries, which are much sweeter than Nebbiolo, at least to the Piemontese palate. Easy to grow and quick to vinify, it allows growers a speedy return, and the rest of us something to savour while Nebbiolo is still maturing.
The story so far is very similar to that of Barbera, a grape variety, which, until recently, shared Dolcetto's Cinderella status. However, Barbera's fortunes and reputation changed for the better when producers discovered that with a better site and lower yields it resulted in far more complex wines, with riper acidity, and, at least as important, showed affinity with barriques. The new wave Barberas appealed to an international public, and the use of the small oak casks conveniently allowed for a considerable price increase that wine lovers were willing to pay.
Dolcetto is nowhere near such an upgrade, but this may have less to do with its intrinsic qualities than its perceived reputation as a simple variety. Within Piemonte itself the picture is more diverse, and several DOCs provide it with its own designation. Except for the catch-all DOC of Langhe Dolcetto, there is Dolcetto d'Alba, by far the largest zone; Dolcetto di Diano d'Alba, or Diano d'Alba, in between the Barolo communes and the city of the same name; Dolcetto delle Langhe Monregalesi, in the very south of the region bordering the mountain range that separates Liguria from Piemonte; the very obscure Dolcetto di Ovada (which nevertheless was recently upgraded to Ovada DOCG) around the town of the same name near Gavi; and, perhaps the most important of these, Dolcetto di Dogliani, immediately south of Monforte d'Alba. Whereas Dolcetto d'Alba by law must have a minimum of 11.5% alcohol, and an extract of 22 g/l, Dogliani needs to come up with 13% alcohol and a minimum of 24 g/l of extract. Also yields with 56 hl/h are considerably lower than the 63 hl/ha for Dolcetto d'Alba. All these are indications that Dogliani as a region must possess something special.
Dogliani seems to be in ferment, with a recent elevation to DOCG, Italy's highest quality designation. The DOCG can either appear on the label as Dolcetto di Dogliani Superiore, or straight Dogliani, analogous to France's tradition of naming wine after its origin rather than the grape. Confusingly, there is also a straight DOC, Dolcetto di Dogliani. Adding further to the confusion is the fact that the DOCG also provides for a Dogliani Classico designation, as in this case Classico does not signify, as in Soave or Chianti for example, a historic subregion, but merely designates a lower yield. It is a thorn in the side of Nicoletta Bocca (pictured - just), of the San Fereolo estate in Dogliani.
Nicoletta Bocca, a relative newcomer to the region, started to acquire a patch of Dolcetto vineyards in 1993, after studying fashion design and history. Frustrated in her ambition to create a museum that would document the history of Italian fashion, she turned to the countryside she had been introduced to by her father who had been a second-world-war partisan in the Dogliani region. When asked how one turns the focus from fashion to viticulture, she explained that she likes things that take time, which she says mirrors her character more than the ever-changing world of fashion.
One wouldn't immediately think of Dolcetto as a variety that embodies stately ageing, but this is exactly what her Dogliani wines demand. I was presented the proof of this in a vertical of six vintages (see notes below) going back to 1998 from the 2006, a wine that will need considerable time to develop. What the flight seemed to indicate is that Dogliani must have a very special terroir, allowing Dolcetto to turn into something so much more serious than the run-of-the-mill, but very pleasant, Dolcettos that are on the market.
Keen to crack the serious Dolcetto code, I asked Bocca if terroir is the crucial factor in the equation. According to her, the limestone clay soils of Dogliani result in grapes with lots of tannins, which need prolonged ageing. Dolcetto's skin has a high concentration of pigments, while most of its tannins are in the pips. The conventional way of vinifying the grape aims at getting as much colour out of the grapes without leeching tannins out of the pips. Therefore most producers minimise the maceration time in tank and ferment at lowish temperatures to preserve fruitiness.
Bocca, however, doesn't use any temperature control, no sulphur and only indigenous yeast. The grapes are vinified in open oak casks to prevent the risk of the reduction that Dolcetto is prone to. She uses cap plunging, with regular remontage employed only to aerate the wine. She also lets the temperature go up to around 33ºC. The unusually high fermentation temperature causes the primary fruit flavours to 'boil off', but she isn't bothered by that in the least, as she is much more interested in complexity as a result of long ageing. And ageing is what her Dogliani gets. After a total maceration time of up to 20 days, the wine remains in cask for a year, followed by several years of bottle ageing at the estate, with the current vintage on the market being 2006. She acknowledges that it is too young, but she cannot entirely ignore economic factors in running her estate.
As always, quality starts in the vineyards, and Bocca tends hers biodynamically, with the main aim to get the ripest grapes. Unsurprisingly, the best vineyard sites with south-east and south-west exposures reserved for Dolcetto. According to Bocca, a lot of Dolcetto is picked too early, with unripe, green tannins in the pips. But as the grape so swiftly and easily releases its anthocyanins, the wines are often pressed before the alcoholic fermentation has ended, and the tannin extracted from the pips. This results in an upfront, fruit driven and fairly simple wine, unlike hers. She has no formal qualification in either vinification nor viticulture, but relies on her neighbours, people who have made serious Dolcetto for as long as they can think. She mentioned as an example that she never does any shoot trimming during the growing season, as she noticed that her neighbours wouldn't do this either. While shoot trimming may force the plant to concentrate on the fruit, she says she claims to see the vine as a unity, and believes that the vine should not invest all its energy in the fruit, but also in its vegetative parts. This results initially in less concentrated fruit, but stronger and longer-lived vines, hers being between 40 and 70 years old.
While Bocca is one of Dolcetto's main proponents in Dogliani, she says she is certainly not the one who first noticed its potential. The region, at least locally, has several producers who have always taken Dolcetto seriously. That's why she is not convinced by the Dogliani Classico designation, as for her, Dogliani Classico still signifies the 'conventional style', a wine for immediate consumption without any ambition or complexity, resulting in low prices. True Dogliani, even in Italy, is little known and remains a hand sell, which wine professionals and sommeliers alike will need to explain to the customer.
My tasting notes on this fascinating vertical are below. Note the evolving name and status of the appellation.
San Fereolo 1998 Dolcetto di Dogliani 17.5 Drink 2010-15
Poured from magnum. Deep ruby, with broader, lighter rim. Bordeaux lookalike. Ethereal and fragrant with intense cherry compote notes. Elegant and sweet and light of touch on the palate, with fine but at the same time pronounced tannic structure. Somewhat reminiscent of Pinot Noir. Certainly no workhorse grape. 13.5% (WS)
San Fereolo 1999 Dolcetto di Dogliani 17 Drink 2010-17
Poured from magnum. Medium-deep ruby with broad, watery rim. Powerful, complex, hints of nuts, marsilia (a type of green soap originally from Marseilles), cherry, shoe polish. Earthy, almost musty note too. Very fine, powdery tannin framing dark fruit, with tarry notes, and slightly nutty touch, but the wine comes out clean, fragrant and long on the finish. Mature, but still can go on. Needs decanting! 13.5% (WS)
San Fereolo 2001 Dolcetto di Dogliani Superiore 17.5 Drink 2010-20
This wine was served before the 2000 in the flight. Very youthful nose, with cherry fruit and cherry pie notes and, again, a touch of marsilia. Rich, sweet and concentrated attack with tannin adding delicious bitter note. Fruit closes up on the finish, indicating prolonged future. 13.5% (WS)
San Fereolo 2000 Dolcetto di Dogliani Superiore 16.5 Drink 2010-18
Poured from magnum. Very deep, almost impenetrable ruby. Seems almost younger than the 2001, at least on the nose, with cherry and strawberry jam notes. Compact fruit palate with succulent, and well-balanced acidity. Perhaps a touch less generous on the finish than 2001, and coating tannins with bitter note at this stage, becoming slightly stalky. Needs more time. 13.5% (WS)
San Fereolo 2003 Dolcetto di Dogliani Superiore 17 Drink 2010-18
Poured from magnum. Deep ruby. Perfumed, but restraint pomegranate and cherry, notes of flour. Sweet, but youthful and concentrated attack, with tannins wrapped up in sweet, ripe fruit, becoming more and more dominant on the finish. Very long, warm fruit finish with contrasting bitter tannin. Will develop further. 13.5% (WS)
San Fereolo 2004 Dolcetto di Dogliani Superiore 17.5 Drink 2010-18
Poured from magnum. Very deep, opaque ruby. Quite open nose, very Italian, bitter cherry and spice, hints of tobacco leaf and hay. Surprisingly backward on the palate, with rich, coating, bitter tannin, and bitter laurel finish. Wait. 14.5% (WS)
San Fereolo 2005 Dogliani DOCG 17 Drink 2010-17
Poured from magnum. Only Dogliani, without prefix Dolcetto due to new DOCG. Impenetrable, dark ruby. Finely perfumed, opens up to heady liqueur and floor polish. Elegant acidity sustains rich fruit palate, slightly astringent tannins at this stage, but wil melt. Warm, lengthy, concentrated fruit finish. 14% (WS)
San Fereolo 2006 Dogliani DOCG 17 Drink 2012-20 Deep violet ruby. Pure cherry jam on the nose and the now familiar marsilia. Rich fruit captured by bitter tannin and very lively acidity. Very elegant and fragrant finish, despite the tannic muscle. 14.5% (WS)
Thursday 11 November 2010
NEBBIOLO PRIMA - BAROLO 2006S AND 2004 RISERVA
Nebbiolo - Barolo 2006s and 2004 Riservas24 Jun 2010 by Walter Speller
The second part of Nebbiolo Prima, the Nebbiolo blind-tasting marathon, was devoted solidly to Barolo. Armed only with a sheet denoting the vintage and communes, we, the assembled press, worked our way through 206 samples of the 2006 vintage and 2004 Riservas. The first wines to be poured were the straight Barolos, mostly a blend of several vineyards, and sometimes from different communes. Although the finest Barolos are now considered to be those from a single vineyard, as in Burgundy, blending of different sites is by no means uncommon. And although my initial impression of the straight Barolos was one of 'declassified' or 'second best' wines, there were exceptions such as that of the high-profile Bartolo Mascarello, whose premium Barolo has always been a blend of wines from several prime sites.
The analogy with Burgundy is often used to describe and explain the intricacies of Barolo. Like its French counterpart, the region consists of several villages, or communes, 11 in total, with myriad individual vineyards, often divided between many producers, which results in the same parcellated structure as in Burgundy. Based on soil type, exposure and altitude, the wines produced can be distinctly different, but historically certain broad, stylistic characteristics have been applied to each commune. For example, the wine of Barolo proper is often described as 'elegant and harmonious', while Serralunga's wines are considered more 'firm' and 'slow to develop', but the labyrinth of vineyard patches makes true generalisations much more difficult than these historic descriptors would have us believe. Hence, a sound knowledge of vineyards and producers is a prerequisite, and as complicated as in Burgundy. And although producers have an intimate knowledge of the characteristics and quality of every single patch of vineyard in the region, there is fierce resistance to an official classification that would rank the vineyards in a transparent cru system. The middle road is that there is broad common knowledge of which vineyards are superior (but disappointments can abound), and the vineyard name, called sottozona, may appear on the label, so long as the piece of land has officially been registered under that name.
Very different from Burgundy, however, is the fact that, although the undisputed leader is the Nebbiolo grape, the Barolo region is by no means restricted to this variety. Dolcetto, Barbera and Moscato are at least as common in its vineyards, with the resulting varietals sold as, for example, Dolcetto or Barbera d'Alba. The fact that the Barolo region lies within several different designated regions is the direct consequence of the very hilly landscape almost completely devoted to vineyards, except for the hilltops, on which towns tend to be perched, and the bottom of the valleys, which may be to cool to ripen grapes properly. The hills provide many different exposures, and the very best are reserved for the late-ripening and fickle Nebbiolo, whereas the more accommodating Dolcetto and Barbera are planted where Nebbiolo cannot be ripened. The regulations for Barolo restrict plantings of Nebbiolo destined for the production of Barolo to between 170 and 540 metres altitude. Any proposed new vineyard site is checked in so much detail that at least one producer didn't bother to plant a potential prime site for Nebbiolo, so much did he fear the time-consuming and bureaucratic process this would entail.
With every patch of soil devoted to vineyards, the Barolo region is one of the most densely planted vineyard areas in the world, which must have a huge impact on the health of the soil. Although several of its top producers have been practising sustainable viticultural practices, in general I didn't encounter a great enthusiasm for organic methods in the region, as the general sentiment seems to be that even if one wanted to farm organically, the fact that vineyards are often shared by many producers means that contamination could not be excluded. Most producers are committed to sustainable viticulture, however. The supposed battle between 'traditionalists' and 'modernists', a description used ad nauseam in the recent past to distinguish producers using modern vinification methods (short maceration times, use of French oak) from the traditional, 'old fashioned' winemakers, could flare up again, this time fuelled by supporters of the so-called 'natural wine' camp.
In the past, controversy mostly centred on the use of new barriques, thought by many to suppress Nebbiolo's perfume. However, winemakers in favour argued that they help to soften wines with Nebbiolo's characteristic high tannins and acidity, wines that need long ageing, and make them more appealing to an international market. They introduced much shorter maceration times, sometimes even only days, often with the help of rotofermenters, a type of fermentation vessel that promotes extraction, all in an effort to prevent too much or, rather, what they considered too much, tannin ending up in the wine. Nowadays most producers have come full circle and use oak much more judiciously, without returning to the past. Interestingly, a tendency towards old-school winemaking, if it was ever out of favour, seems to be returning, with a reorientation towards 'ancient methods' such as extended maceration times, indigenous yeast, fermentation in large oak casks, and longer ageing than is minimally required by law (three years, of which one in oak, and more than four years for Riserva). But the proponents of this are not always the younger generation, as Giuseppe Rinaldo and Bartolo Mascarello have shown for example, and with Giacomo Fennocchio keeping some of his wines for more than 90 days on the skins, while eschewing barriques for further ageing.
A recurrent theme, which at times was a bit wearing, was the producers' perception of the UK as a stagnant market. Although it is understandable that producers put their marketing budget where sales can be expected, it doesn't wholly explain why there is such willingness to invest in potential export markets that have neither a real wine culture nor a friendly tax system. Additionally, one can hardly be surprised that wines such as Barolo are not selling under current economic circumstances if they are not supported by any generic promotion. I cannot remember the last time Barolo producers presented their wine in a comprehensive trade tasting in the UK [I cannot remember such a tasting ever - JR]. To make wine professionals and wine comsumers aware of the endless complexity of Barolo and Barbaresco, they need ambassadors. And who could better play this role than their makers?
The 2006 and 2004 vintages
I got the impression on the basis of what I tasted that the 2006 vintage is certainly a very good one, although with some irregularities, as some of the wines could not entirely escape betraying the somewhat uneven growing season.
January 2006 saw some very cold weather, with temperatures sinking as low as -10 ºC and heavy snowfall at the end of the month, followed by heavy rains. This pattern of rain continued well into February, while temperatures remained low. Spring started relatively late in April. High temperatures occurred from mid May on, with a cold snap in June, followed by a heatwave, with mercury rising to 35 ºC, lasting well until the end of July.
August showed the reverse, with cool weather and very little rain, but high temperatures returned in the last 10 days of that month. Autumn rains came mid September and, depending on the area, three to four times more rain fell than is normal for that time of year. According to the official vintage report, the rain did little damage as most of the water was immediately absorbed by water-starved soils.
I found several wines showing raisined and dried fruit aromas on the nose. As mentioned earlier, when Barolo ages a certain sweet richness develops and aromas of dried fruit, and tertiary aromas become more evident. This can give a wonderful viscous and concentrated mouthfeel framed by persistent but fine tannins given a crunchy bite by acidity. However, when dried-fruit notes become the dominant element on the nose and palate, it makes the young wines at the very beginning of their development look less elegant and slightly tired. One cannot really imagine that this will develop into something more complex. But the very best wines have a firm structure, good acidity, with real fruit intensity, and freshness.
2004 Riservas, on the other hand, showed more richness, paired regularly with complexity, length and savoury tannins, so much so that I got hooked on the crunchy bite that lingered on the palate, sustained by concentrated fruit flavours. The wines seemed more open, too, but this impression may have been caused by the fact that this vintage was served at the end of the tasting after the embryonic 2006s. That is not to say that they do not possess staying power, as the best undoubtedly will prove to have.
BAROLO FROM MORE THAN ONE COMMUNE (or from vineyards overlapping commune borders)
Famiglia Anselma 2006 Barolo 16.5? Drink 2012-2020
Monforte d’Alba, Serralunga d’Alba. Developed ruby with broad orange rim. Ethereal, balsamic and hints of oatmeal, touch of bacon too. Subdued. Sweet, ripe fruit impression but backward. Drying tannin dominates the finish. Potentially huge wine. (WS)
Deltetto, Sistaglia 2006 Barolo 15.5 Drink 2012-2016
La Morra, Monforte d’Alba. Deep ruby just about to show some orange. Sweet, ripe and ever so slightly reductive. Rich attack too. Doesn’t show a lot of complexity at this stage. Tannins slightly unsettled, but not rough. Opens up only very slowly on the finish. Stalky finish. (WS)
Gianni Gagliardo, Serre 2006 Barolo 16 Drink 2014-2020
La Morra, Barolo, Monforte d'Alba, Serralunga d'Alba. Deep, developing ruby with broad garnet rim. Liqueur-like and somewhat alcoholic, but with air opens up to more complex fruit. Grippy fruit palate, but lovely juicy acidity. Very young. (WS)
Pio Cesare 2006 Barolo 16.5 Drink 2012-2018
Serralunga d'Alba, Grinzane, La Morra, Castiglione Falletto, Novello. Medium-deep ruby, pale-ish rim. Popular sweet oak nose, with hints of vanilla pod. Balsamic notes too. Internationally styled, but very fine tannin structure. Slow aromatic development on the finish keeps up the attention span. (WS)
Prunotto 2006 Barolo 16 Drink 2014-2018
Barolo, Monforte d'Alba, Castiglione Falletto. Deep centred ruby and orange tinge rim. Dusty sawdust opening dominates the nose. Very backward palate and dry finish, but with ongoing fruit sensation. (WS)
Francesco Rinaldi & Figli, Brunate 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2011-2016
Barolo and La Morra. Brilliant medium-concentrated ruby, mature looking. Sweet, ever so slightly raisiny and savoury too. Similar palate without great fascination, but seems decent. (WS)
Rivetto, Leon 2006 Barolo 16.5 Drink 2014-2018
La Morra, Serralunga d'Alba. Deep ruby just showing first signs of age. Soft fruitcake aromas. Similar palate with edgy tannins. Finish shows more concentrated and perfumed. Youthful, and promising. (WS)
Terre da Vino, Essenze 2006 Barolo 15.5 Drink 2011-2015
La Morra, Barolo, Novello, Serralunga d’Alba, Monforte d’Alba, Castiglione Falletto. Deep ruby with only a tinge of orange. Heady liqueur-like nose, but multilayered. Alcoholic too. Some very nice red fruit flavours with real depth, but austere and dry finish. This can’t hinder the very good length though, but finish remains austere and somewhat hard. (WS)
Terre da Vino, Paesi Tuoi 2006 Barolo 15.5 Drink 2012-2016
Grinzane Cavour, Castiglione Falletto. Medium-deep ruby with broader orange rim. Powerful nose of concentrated fruit and layers of sweet cherry and orange peel. Austere attack, and quite forceful tannin, but backed up by fruit. Needs more time. (WS)
Terre del Barolo 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2012-2015
Various communes. Mature-looking ruby with orange-tinged rim. Dusty new oak nose. This covers up the fruit on the palate too. Drying (oak) tannins and quite bitter finish. Difficult to see the fruit behind all this at this stage. (WS)
COMUNE DI BAROLO
Cascina Adelaide, Cannubi 2006 Barolo 15.5 Drink 2012-2016
Barolo. Medium ruby with the beginning of orange. Vegetal notes. Palate much better with lifted fruit, and orange-peel finish. Benefit of the doubt. (WS)
Cascina Adelaide, Preda 2006 Barolo 14.5 Drink 2011-2013
Barolo. Deep ruby with small orange rim. Oak and hints of nuts and fruitcake. Sweet oaked palate too. Forced. (WS)
Famiglia Anselma 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2011-2015
Barolo. Light orange-tinged ruby. Warm, peppery and inviting dried-fruit nose. Sweet fruit attack, porty style finish. Big, and slightly clumsy. (WS)
Barale, Castellero 2006 Barolo 14.5 Drink 2011-2013
Barolo. Medium-concentrated ruby with small orange-tinged rim. Herbal, perhaps even vegetal as well as a touch stewed. Highish acidity lifts slightly tired fruit. (WS)
Virna Borgogno, Preda Sarmassa 2006 Barolo 14.5 Drink 2011-2014
Barolo. Medium ruby, broad orange rim. Developed nose of tobacco leaves, touch of leather. Unripe? Very dry on the finish. (WS)
Virna Borgogno, Cannubi Boschis 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2012-2015
Barolo. Concentrated ruby with bright orange-tinged rim. Immediate oak impact on the nose. It looks pretty and at the same time developed. Oak has an even bigger impact on the palate burying the Nebbiolo fruit. (WS)
Silvano ed Elena Boroli, Cerequio 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2011-2014
Barolo. Mature looking medium-concentrated ruby. Slightly stewed and alcoholic nose. Very sweet and slightly tired-looking palate with lots of tannin. Not entirely convincing on the finish. (WS)
Brezza, Bricco Sarmassa 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2011-2014
Barolo. Medium ruby with orange tinge. Somewhat nutty and vegetal, with contrasting sweet palate. Astringent finish. Ever so slightly dull? (WS)
Brezza, Cannubi 2006 Barolo 16 Drink 2012-2018
Barolo. Medium ruby with broad orange-tinged rim. Notes of leather but with some intriguing lurking fruit underneath. On the palate lashes of sweet fruit, and at the same time compact. Brooding. (WS)
Bric Cenciurio, Coste di Rose 2006 Barolo 14.5 Drink 2011
Barolo. Very deep ruby with lighter rim. Marmite and some VA. Confected and sweet. (WS)
Bric Cenciurio 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2010-2015
Barolo. Medium-concentrated ruby, broad rim just starting to open up. Sweet and shy in complexity. Slightly port-like palate. Tannin looks sharp due to highish alcohol. (WS)
Vittorio Camerano, Cannubi San Lorenzo 2006 Barolo 14 Drink 2011-2013
Barolo. Concentrated ruby and well-developed orange rim. Oatmeal and browning apple. Slightly stale too? Somewhat stewed fruit character. Slightly dull. (WS)
Cavalier Bartolomeo, Cannubi San Lorenzo 2006 Barolo 14.5 Drink 2011-2014
Barolo. Ruby with deep centre and fading into orange on the rim. Sweet and oxidative, hinting at tawny port. Sweet and rather inexpressive palate. Doesn’t seem a lot of expansion possible here. (WS)
Fratelli Cavallotto, Bricco Boschis 2006 Barolo 15.5 Drink 2012-2018
Castiglione Falletto. Deep, youthful-looking ruby. Dry tea leaves and Mon Cherie, orange note. Quite rich attack and somewhat in the dried-fruit spectrum but shows good length on the finish. (WS)
Michele Chiarlo, Cannubi 2006 Barolo 14.5 Drink 2011-2014
Barolo. Deep ruby with light orange rim. Slightly musty and definitely very sweet. Sweet and somewhat one dimensional. (WS)
Comm GB Burlotto, Vigneto Cannubi 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2011-2015
Barolo. Medium ruby getting lighter on the rim. Balsamic, with hints of spice and the merest suggestion of cacao. Palate is slightly let done by rich, sweet monolithic fruit. Quite soft acidity. (WS)
Damilano, Cannubi 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2011-2015
Barolo. Deep ruby with paler, orange rim. Dried fruit opening. On the palate perhaps the first sign of browning apple? Sweet fruit and somewhat rustic tannins. (WS)
Luigi Einaudi, Nei Cannubi 2006 Barolo 17 Drink 2012-2018
Barolo. Youthful looking ruby, just beginning to show some orange on the rim. Shy nose with oatmeal and lingering sweet cherry. Succulent real fruit, energetic and youthful, with powerful, but grainy tannins. Classy. (WS)
Luigi Einaudi, Costa Grimaldi 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2011-2014
Barolo. Deep ruby with rim just starting to show some orange. Sweet and bashfully popular. Touch alcoholic too. Lifted sweet fruit palate with acidic vein, but cannot fascinate long. (WS)
Gianni Gagliardo, Cannubi 2006 Barolo 14.5 Drink 2011-2014
Barolo. Medium deep, developed ruby with orange rim. Vegetal opening, tobacco leaves, touch of Oxo-cubes. Vanilla fruit palate making the wine formulaic. Ends on sweet pâtisserie notes. (WS)
Angelo Germano, Vigna Rue 2006 Barolo 14.5 Drink 2010-2014
Barolo. Deep ruby with orange rim. Very sweet, raisiny nose, and one-dimensional palate. (WS)
Giacomo Grimaldi, Le Coste 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2012-2016
Barolo. Dark, medium concentrated, broader orange-tinged rim. Herbal and subdued, hinting at candied peel. Somewhat sharp on the palate, but has length, low-key dried fruit hints. (WS)
Marchesi di Barolo, Coste di Rose 2006 Barolo 17 Drink 2012-2019
Barolo. Pale-ish youthful ruby. Compact, fine, peppery. Succulent fruit with stalky tannins. Elegant mouthfeel. Embryonic, but with lots of freshness. (WS)
Marchesi di Barolo, Sarmassa 2006 Barolo 16.5 Drink 2012-2018
Barolo. Deep ruby, with dark centre. Nose only slow to open. Quite weighty and rich on the palate and very backward. Alcoholic, but has potential. Modern richness on the finish. (WS)
Bartolo Mascarello 2006 Barolo 16.5 Drink 2012-2019
Barolo, La Morra. Ruby with just the beginning of orange on the rim. Very sweet creaminess and baking spice nose. Touch VA? Very sweet on the palate too. Rich fruit impression. Very ripe. Old school, but lingering. (WS)
Giuseppe Nada 2006 Barolo 17 Drink 2012-2020
Barolo. Deep ruby, just starting to show orange. Brooding and heady. Full, concentrated and slow to open up. Very long finish. Pretty impressive. (WS)
E Pira di Chiara Boschis, Cannubi 2006 Barolo 16 Drink 2012-2018
Barolo. Dark ruby. Dried fruit and orange sorbet opening. Violets. Very sweet, almost jammy. Lots of concentration, but perhaps lacking in tension. (WS)
La Querciola, Coste di Rose 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2012-2015
Barolo. Deep ruby with brick-stone reflexes. A whiff of vegetal, leathery notes. Lacks generosity in fruit on the mid palate. Quite drying too, but sweet finish. Unbalanced. (WS)
Giuseppe Rinaldi, Cannubi San Lorenzo Ravera 2006 Barolo 16 Drink 2012-2019
Barolo. Pale-ish ruby with the beginning of age. Reductive with sweet sour fruit notes. Needs lots of air. Sweet and must have seen some oak. But there is complexity too, and acidity pushing the palate forward. Very slow. (WS)
Giuseppe Rinaldi, Brunate Le Coste 2006 Barolo 16.5 Drink 2012-2019
Barolo. Light ruby with orange tinge. Herbal opening. Massive palate of sweet fruit and tannin, but much more complex finish. Slightly rough tannin will edge out. (WS)
Francesco Rinaldi & Figli, Cannubbio 2006 Barolo 14 Drink 2011
Barolo. Deep ruby, pale orange rim. Oxidative tawny port-like nose. Fading fruit. (WS)
Luciano Sandrone, Cannubi Boschis 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2012-2016
Barolo. Concentrated ruby with orange rim. Sweet cream and cherry and herb liqueur. Straightforward sweet fruitcake impression. Not enormously complex, but may develop. (WS)
Luciano Sandrone, Le Vigne 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2010-2016
Barolo, Monforte d’Alba, Novello. Concentrated ruby. Pale orange rim. Stewed and sweet. Slightly monotonous palate at this stage. (WS)
Giorgio Scarzello e Figli 2006 Barolo 13 Drink 2011
Barolo. Medium-concentrated ruby with orange rim. Nose shows oyster shells. Brett? Stale fruit palate. (WS)
Giorgio Scarzello e Figli, Vigna Merenda 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2012-2017
Barolo. Palish, orange ruby. Very earthy, almost stale at first, like fist in a tight oak glove, but opens up with air. Same compactness on the palate. Reluctant to show anything. (WS)
Le Strette, Bergeisa 2006 Barolo 14.5 Drink 2011-2014
Barolo. Deep ruby with broad rim. Tea, orange peel and cherry, and all of a sudden lots of vanilla. Definitely overoaked, which is a shame. (WS)
G D Vajra, Bricco delle Viole 2006 Barolo 17 Drink 2012-2018
Barolo. Concentrated youthful ruby. Herbal and tea leaf notes. Cherry liqueur. Concentrated fruit attack. Quite rich, matched by crunchy tannins. Long and dense. (WS)
COMUNE DI BAROLO RISERVA
Barale, Castellero Riserva 2004 Barolo 15 Drink 2012-2016
Barolo. Maturing ruby with broad rim. Ever so slightly raisiny. Repeats itself on the palate. Concentrated but somewhat monotonous. (WS)
Giacomo Borgogno, Riserva 2004 Barolo 17 Drink 2012-2020
Barolo. Maturing ruby. Cherries steeped in alcohol, and the beginning of tertiary aromas. Elegant fresh palate underlined by austere tannins. Tannins dominate the finish too, but the fragrant finish shows genuine fruit and complexity. (WS)
Giacomo Borgogno, Liste Riserva 2004 Barolo 15 Drink 2010-2014
Pale ruby just starting to develop. Herbal opening, might be the oak, but improves with air. Lots of acidity dragging the herb liqueur fruit along. Seems tired? (WS)
Serio e Battista Borgogno, Cannubi Riserva 2004 Barolo 14.5 Drink 2010-2013
Barolo. Medium-deep ruby with broad orange rim. Sweet caramel and nutty nose. Oxidative attack, and tired fruit on the palate. (WS)
Virna Borgogno, Preda Sarmassa Riserva 2004 Barolo 17 Drink 2012-2020
Barolo. Mature ruby. Round, heady nose, but palate is tight and with lots of acidity. Lots of life here, if at the very beginning of its development. (WS)
COMUNE DI NOVELLO
Marziano Abbona, Terlo Ravera 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2011-2016
Novello. Deep ruby just starting to open up on the rim. Oaked and international nose, repeated on the palate with very sweet, candied fruit. (WS)
Elvio Cogno, Cascina Nuova 2006 Barolo 15.5 Drink 2012-2018
Novello. Bright, deep ruby with orange tinge. Opens slightly leathery with hint of marmite. Not a lot of expression on the palate at this stage. Dried fruit and marzipan impression on the finish. (WS)
Elvio Cogno, Ravera 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2011-2015
Novello. Deep ruby, border, orange-tinged rim. Marmite and herbal opening. Herb liqueur palate and slightly burning finish.(WS)
Le Ginestre, Sottocastello 2006 Barolo 17 Drink 2012-2018
Novello. Ruby with deep centre and broader rim with beginning of orange. Subdued but with class. Complex palate too, but at the beginning of its development. Persistent tannins and lovely acidity and long and fragrant. Evidently aged in (some) new oak. (WS)
Armando Piazzo 2006 Barolo 16 Drink 2010-2017
Novello. Pale-ish ruby with broad orange-tinged rim. Sweet and ever so slightly stewed. Sweet fruit palate without enormous complexity. Accessible. Oxidative style. (WS)
Le Strette, Bergera-Pezzole 2006 Barolo 15.5 Drink 2011-2016
Novello. Medium ruby gradually developing on the rim. Heady, seductive and sweet. Very ripe and very sweet on the palate too, with much needed contrasting stalky tannin. (WS)
COMUNE DI NOVELLO RISERVA
Armando Piazzo, Sotto Castello di Novello Riserva 2004 Barolo 16 Drink 2012-2018
Novello. Deep-centred ruby. Tea, orange peel, dried cherry, and the merest earthy, herbal note. Perhaps ever so slightly musty? Cherry and orange-peel palate. Old school, rustic, but with complex length. Grows on you. (WS)
COMUNE DI GRINZANE CAVOUR
Bruna Grimaldi, Camilla 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2011-2014
Grinzane Cavour. Maturing ruby with broad orange-tinged rim. Dusty sawn-oak nose and sweet candied fruit. Palate is rather simple at this stage and high acidity makes tannin look dry. (WS)
COMUNE DI RODDI
Eredi Lodali, Lorens 2006 Barolo 15.5 Drink 2011-2016
Roddi. Very concentrated maturing ruby. Soft sweet fruitcake opening, somewhat candied too. Oak peaks through sweet fruit. Quite dry tannin. Not very sophisticated, but all parts could come together. Medium cellaring. (WS)
COMUNE DI VERDUNO
Claudio Alario, Riva 2006 Barolo 15.5 Drink 2011-2015
Verduno. Developed ruby with broad orange rim. Herb and black tea leaves, with well integrated oak note. A touch stewed, which is confirmed on the palate. Ends very sweet and raisiny and quite commercial. (WS)
Fratelli Alessandria, Monvigliero 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2012-2018
Verduno. Medium-deep concentrated ruby. Opulent nose, but a very tannic sweet fruit palate. (WS)
Bel Colle 2006 Barolo 15.5 Drink 2012-2018
Verduno. Deep, quite youthful looking ruby. Shy but complex, with more generosity on the attack. Rich finish too, but with depth. Fiercely tannic. (WS)
Bosco Agostino, Neirane 2006 Barolo 16.5 Drink 2012-2020
Verduno. Deep, serious-looking ruby. Shy at first, and somewhat subdued on the palate too. Very embryonic, well balanced, but tight. Forceful tannins supporting sweet, warm fruit finish. (WS)
Castello di Verduno, Massara 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2012-2017
Verduno. Medium-concentrated ruby just starting to show some orange on the rim. Muted nose paired with a monolithic palate. Rich but somewhat restraint fruit finish. (WS)
Comm GB Burlotto, Acclivi 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2011-2014
Verduno. Medium ruby with even orange rim. Restrained at first, but with some depth. Cherry and herb liqueur and richness on the palate. Quite astringent, balanced out by all that sweet fruit, but not enormously complex. (WS)
COMUNE DI VERDUNO RISERVA
Bel Colle, Monvigliero Riserva 2004 Barolo 15 Drink 2011-2016
Verduno. Ruby with deep centre and pale rim. Herbal and with a whiff of saddle. Concentrated but inexpressive on the palate. (WS)
Castello di Verduno, Monvigliero Riserva 2004 Barolo 15.5 Drink 2011-2015
Verduno. Medium-concentrated ruby with the beginning of orange on the rim. Sweet candied peel nose, and popular sweet palate, without great complexity. Still, long. (WS)
COMUNE DI LA MORRA
Ballarin, Bricco Rocca 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2011-2014
La Morra. Medium-deep ruby with watery orange rim. Mellow and sweet fruit but without any real focus? Sweet oak and slightly alcoholic. (WS)
Eugenio Bocchino, La Serra 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2011-2015
La Morra. Medium deep, maturing ruby. Upfront fruitcake nose and liqueur. Sweet and accessible palate, held together by just enough acidity. Ends on fruitcake. (WS)
Enzo Boglietti, Case Nere 2006 Barolo 15.5 Drink 2011-2016
La Morra. Very deep ruby, small orange-tinged rim. Dark, brooding nose with tobacco notes. Sweet and ripe and perhaps a tad stewed? (WS)
Enzo Boglietti, Fossati 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2010-2015
La Morra. Deep ruby just starting to show orange on the rim. Posh oak and fruit nose. Lots of sweet dried fruit, but nothing that keeps the attention span for long. (WS)
Bosco Agostino, La Serra 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2011-2015
La Morra. Deep ruby with broad orange rim. Earthy, minerally and hint of horse saddle. Caramel fruit impression, and almost mellow palate. Can’t really fault it but doesn’t make you jump out of your seat. (WS)
Gianfranco Bovio, Rocchettevino 2006 Barolo 16.5 Drink 2012-2018
La Morra. Deep, medium-concentrated ruby with broad rim. Classic nose of dried cherry, herbs, ever so slightly sweet, port like. Lots of concentration and sweet fruit balanced by acidity and persistent powdery coating tannins. Not yet knit together. (WS)
Gianfranco Bovio, Gattera 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2011-2014
La Morra. Medium ruby with very broad brick rim. Ever so slightly stewed fruit nose, repeated on the palate. Ripe tannin, but not a lot of tension. (WS)
Gianfranco Bovio, Arborina 2006 Barolo 16 Drink 2011-2016
La Morra. Medium-deep ruby with orange tinge. Shy nose and palate, but well balanced. Easy going almost. (WS)
Casetta, Case Nere 2006 Barolo 14.5 Drink 2011-2014
La Morra. Deep ruby with small orange rim. Immediate oak and cream impression. Slightly dull palate and sharp tannin. (WS)
Michele Chiarlo, Cerequio 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2010-2014
La Morra. Deep, maturing ruby. Seems oaky and oxidative. Browning apple notes. Starts to look tired. (WS)
Ciabot Berton 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2011-2015
La Morra. Medium-deep concentrated ruby, small orange rim. Sweet, popular and ever so slightly stewed. Sweet fruit palate with grainy tannins. Quite well balanced, but the fruit seems already maturing fast? (WS)
Ciabot Berton, Roggeri 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2011-2015
La Morra. Mature-looking concentrated ruby. Sweet dried fruit and vanilla. Overripe fruit impression. Looks like really modern style with bashful sweet oak, and slightly stewed fruit finish. (WS)
Cordero di Montezemolo, Bricco Gattera 2006 Barolo 14.5 Drink 2011-2014
La Morra. Deep, almost dark ruby, youthful. International treatment, it seems with oak and ever so slightly oxidative and raisiny. (WS)
Damilano, Brunate 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2011-2014
La Morra. Deep, concentrated ruby. Very soft and ripe with caramel and mocha notes on the finish, pulled together by grainy tannin. (WS)
Francone 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2011-2014
La Morra. Light ruby with broad brilliant orange rim. Fruitcake, Moroccan leather and liquorice. ‘Fast forward’ style. Quite similar on the palate, high acidity on a fairly low-key fruit finish. (WS)
Gagliasso, Rocche dell’Annuziata 2006 Barolo 14.5 Drink 2011-2014
La Morra. Pale-ish orange ruby. Herbal, perhaps even a tad vegetal. Same uneven message on the palate. (WS)
Gagliasso, Torriglione 2006 Barolo 14.5 Drink 2011-2014
La Morra. Medium ruby with lighter orange-tinged rim. Oak impression and earthy sweet fruit. Not entirely clean? Oxidative. Very sweet and herbal, and raisiny. (WS)
Silvio Grasso, Bricco Luciani 2006 Barolo 16 Drink 2011-2015
La Morra. Deep almost dark ruby with small orange rim. Soft, sweet perfumed with a round and mellow palate. Slightly tame but long and with lots of tannin on the finish. (WS)
Silvio Grasso, Ciabot Manzoni 2006 Barolo 16.5 Drink 2012-2017
La Morra. Deep ruby just starting to open up. Very subdued nose. Closed on the palate too. Lacks perhaps a little bit of stuffing on the finish for the structure, but aromatic length is there. (WS)
Grimaldi, Vigna San Biagio 2006 Barolo 14.5 Drink 2011-2014
La Morra. Pale ruby with orange reflexes. Subdued nose, and very mellow palate. Not a lot of depth nor tension, almost simple. (WS)
L'Illuminata, Tebavio 2006 Barolo 14 Drink 2011-2013
La Morra. Medium-concentrated ruby with orange reflex. Very candied and sweet, stewed and vanilla cream, trying hard not to look like Barolo. (WS)
Marcarini, La Serra 2006 Barolo 14.5 Drink 2011-2014
La Morra. Evenly maturing ruby. Low key and sweet, and overripe. Astringent too. (WS)
Marcarini, Brunate 2006 Barolo 14 Drink 2011-2013
La Morra. Concentrated ruby with orange rim. Quite earthy, perhaps even metallic? Seems oxidised. Two samples tasted, without improvement. (WS)
Marco Marengo, Brunate 2006 Barolo 15.5 Drink 2011-2016
La Morra. Deep ruby with small orange rim. Soft ripe and without a lot of depth, perhaps just very young. Stalky tannin, but with good length. Ends warm. (WS)
Gian Piero Marrone, Pichermej 2006 Barolo 16.5 Drink 2012-2018
La Morra. Medium ruby with broad orange rim. Very sweet and candied. Compact and tight on the palate, but some very nice tannin here, and soft but ongoing finish of dark cherry and tea leaves. (WS)
Mauro Molino, Vigna Gancia 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2011-2015
La Morra. Pale ruby with orange-tinged rim. Stewed and sweet, giving rich impression on the palate, but not a lot of depth. (WS)
Mauro Molino, Vigna Gancia 2006 Barolo 14 Drink 2011-2013
La Morra. Medium-concentrated ruby with orange reflex. Very candied and sweet, stewed and vanilla cream, trying hard not to look like Barolo. (WS)
Cascina del Monastero 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2011-2014
La Morra. Orange ruby, fairly pale. Subdued with a pinch of very posh oak, followed by a one dimensional dried-fruit palate. (WS)
Cascina del Monastero, Bricco Luciani 2006 Barolo 14.5 Drink 2011-2014
La Morra. Pale-ish ruby with broad orange rim. Liquorice and herbs. Fruit seems suppressed by stalky tannins. (WS)
Monchiero, Roere 2006 Barolo 16 Drink 2012-2016
La Morra. Medium-deep ruby with brick-stone tinges. New oak and the merest hint of horse saddle but quite attractive fruit too. Compact but aromatic fruit develops and holds. Very tannic, but pleasant and savoury. (WS)
Andrea Oberto, Vigneto Rocche 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2011-2015
La Morra. Medium-deep ruby with orange rim. Somewhat predictable nose of sweet oak, cherry cake. Somewhat similar palate. Tries hard to please, but doesn’t really fascinate. Very good length though, just not complex. (WS)
Renato Ratti, Marcenasco 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2011-2015
La Morra. Deep, youthful-looking ruby. Quite mature and developed nose. Seems a contrast with its appearance. Herbal liqueur palate. Good length, but lacks depth to turn into something more complex. (WS)
Rocche Costamagna, Rocche dell’Annuziata 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2011-2015
La Morra. Pale ruby with orange rim. Opens up leathery. Sweet and leathery too the palate, lacking in complexity. (WS)
Rocche Costamagna, Rocche dell'Annunziata Bricco Francesco 2006 Barolo 16 Drink 2011-2016
La Morra. Medium ruby with the beginning of orange. Pretty and sweet, quite accessible palate, certainly not a high flyer but with a certain pleasant lightness. (WS)
Aurelio Settimo 2006 Barolo 14.5 Drink 2012-2014
La Morra. Mature orange ruby. Cedary dried-fruit opening, hints of bacon too. Bacon fruit palate. Perhaps not entirely ripe fruit and rough-looking tannins. Somewhat of a chore to taste. (WS)
Aurelio Settimo, Rocche 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2011-2015
La Morra. Pale-ish ruby with soft, shiny broad orange rim. Hints of oak, there is some depth and ripeness on the nose. Seems already quite mature on the palate and fruit seems to have been really ripe. Fierce tannin on a smoky, sweet dried-fruit finish. (WS)
Stroppiana, Vigna San Giacomo 2006 Barolo 16 Drink 2012-2018
La Morra. Medium-deep maturing ruby. Brooding, with only hints of leather. Austere and closed on the palate, but balanced. Warm finish. Fruit holds up with the tannin. Very good length. (WS)
Mauro Veglio, Rocche dell’Annuziata 2006 Barolo 17 Drink 2012-2018
La Morra. Light ruby with orange tinge. Restrained herbal nose, tealeaves, and notes of orange peel. Very young and youthful, taut, lingering, with massive tannin but well balanced. (WS)
Eraldo Viberti, Rocchettevino 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2011-2015
La Morra. Deep, concentrated ruby with small orange-tinged rim. Catchy and sweet and very ripe, herb liqueur and Christmas pudding. Sweet fruit and crunchy tannins. Crowd pleaser, but not very demanding or complex. (WS)
Vietti, Brunate 2006 Barolo 16.5 Drink 2012-2018
La Morra. Deep and still youthful-looking ruby, beginning of orange. Softly perfumed with hints of spice. Generous palate, which strikes a good balance between soft ripe fruit and the persistent tannin. (WS)
Gianni Voerzio, La Serra 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2011-2015
La Morra. Unusually dark ruby. Dusty, earthy, a whiff of leather. Full bodied and big without a lot of expression, but ends sweet. (WS)
COMUNE DI LA MORRA RISERVA
Ballarin, Bricco Rocca Tistot Riserva 2004 Barolo 15 Drink 2011-2016
La Morra. Deep maturing ruby with small orange rim. Fruitcake and walnut hints. Seems somewhat stewed too, with notes of caramel and browning apple turning up, but ends lively. (WS)
Casetta, Riserva 2004 Barolo 15.5 Drink 2013-2018
La Morra. Deep ruby, still youthful looking. Ripe, soft open-knit nose. Ripe and concentrated palate, which needs more time to develop. Lowish acidity. (WS)
Ciabot Berton, Riserva 2004 Barolo 16 Drink 2014-2018
La Morra. Deep ruby and orange-tinged rim. Nose shows notes of bacon and the beginning of tobacco leaf, dried cherry. Initially soft and quite rich on the palate, with a sweet, concentrated finish but still very compact. Closes up. (WS)
Giacomo Fenocchio, Villero 2006 Barolo 17.5 Drink 2014-2020
Castiglione Falletto. Pale-ish ruby with the beginning or orange in a watery rim. Reluctant to open up, and slow on the palate. Very backward, but there is a sweet richness to the finish without being stewed. (WS)
Gagliasso, Riserva 2004 Barolo 14.5 Drink 2012-2014
La Morra. Mature-looking ruby with bright orange rim. Jaegermeister and vanilla nose. Stewed fruit and evident oak. Looks a tad tired. (WS)
Cascina del Monastero, Bricco Riund Riserva 2004 Barolo 15 Drink 2011-2018
La Morra. Watery ruby with orange rim. Round, sweet attack without great complex impact, but has length. Lowish acidity. (WS)
COMUNE DI CASTIGLIONE FALLETTO
Silvano ed Elena Boroli, Villero 2006 Barolo 16 Drink 2012-2018
Castiglione Falletto. Bright ruby with broad orange rim. Heady, sweet, multilayered dried fruit nose. Compact and sweet fruit palate. Obvious dried-fruit character but juicy too, and with ripe but powerful tannin. (WS)
Brovia, Rocche 2006 Barolo 17 Drink 2012-2020
Castiglione Falletto. Pale ruby with the beginning of orange. Very backward on the nose. Fruit is harnessed by tight, fine oak, but finish is all fruit. Minerally too. (WS)
Cavalier Bartolomeo, Solanotto Altenasso 2006 Barolo 16 Drink 2012-2018
Castiglione Falletto. Concentrated ruby with small orange rim. Lifted sweet fruit almost jumping out of the glass. Probably a bit of VA but not unpleasantly so. Sweet palate but with some energy. (WS)
Franco Conterno, Vigna Pugnane 2006 Barolo 14.5 Drink 2011-2015
Castiglione Falletto. Deep ruby with pale orange rim. Lingering and not immediate nose, but the contrary on the palate: full-blown sweet dried fruit and cream and very soft acidity making it almost like a liqueur. Needs more tension. (WS)
Cordero di Montezemolo, Enrico VI 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2012-2016
Castiglione Falletto. Pale-ish, brilliant ruby with broad orange rim. Spicy, sweet and very appealing. Slightly stewed on the palate which will affect its life span, but acidity keeps the tension on the palate. (WS)
Livia Fontana 2004 Barolo 15 Drink 2012-2016
Castiglione Falletto. Medium-deep maturing ruby with broad orange rim. Ripe, savoury, with uncomplicated, soft round fruit palate. Very soft acidity makes the wine look slightly flabby. Creamy note on stalky finish. (WS)
Livia Fontana, Villero 2006 Barolo 16 Drink 2014-2020
Castiglione Falletto. Pale-ish ruby with broad orange rim. Very stubborn on the nose as well as the palate. Very closed and tight, but with brooding concentration. Wait. (WS)
Fratelli Giacosa, Vigna Mandorlo 2006 Barolo 14.5 Drink 2011-2015
Castiglione Falletto. Medium-concentrated ruby. Sweet oak and a hint of browning apple. Soft palate without a lot of depth. (WS)
Monchiero, Rocche 2006 Barolo 17 Drink 2012-2020
Castiglione Falletto. Pale and youthful ruby just opening up on the rim. Perfumed nose with hint of leather, and crunchy red fruit on the palate. Lovely balance and real freshness on the finish with lasting tannic core. Austere and young. (WS)
Montanello 2006 Barolo 14.5 Drink 2011-2014
Castiglione Falletto. Medium-deep ruby with orange reflexes on the rim. Immediate new oak impression, and not just on the nose. Very commercial with sharp tannic impression on the finish. (WS)
Oddero, Rocche di Castiglione 2006 Barolo 14.5 Drink 2012-2015
Castiglione Falletto. Deep developing ruby with bright orange rim. Subdued fruit makes the oak stand out. Mocha fruit and vanilla finish. Very tannic, which saves it from looking too forced. (WS)
Oddero, Villero 2006 Barolo 14.5 Drink 2012-2014
Castiglione Falletto. Deep maturing ruby with bright small orange rim. Very ripe, very forward and ever so slightly vegetal and oxidative even. Sweet and nondescript palate. (WS)
Roccheviberti, Rocche di Castiglione 2006 Barolo 15.5 Drink 2012-2016
Castiglione Falletto. Medium-concentrated ruby with watery orange rim. Slightly dusty and sweet fruit nose. Generous palate if not overtly complex. Restrained fruit on the finish emphasises the oak. (WS)
Francesco Sobrero, Ciabot Tanasio 2006 Barolo 14.5 Drink 2011-2015
Castiglione Falletto. Medium-concentrated ruby with watery broad orange rim. Quite oaky, and with more than a hint of horse saddle, suppressing the aromatics of the fruit. Leather notes and sweet fruit impression on the palate, but ends astringent. (WS)
Vietti, Rocche 2006 Barolo 17 Drink 2012-2020
Castiglione Falletto. Deep ruby with broader orange rim. Balsamic, ands somewhat old school, but with real bite and weight. Soft oak hint on a long finish. (WS)
COMUNE DI CASTIGLIONE FALLETTO RISERVA
Fratelli Cavallotto, Vignolo Riserva 2004 Barolo 17 Drink 2014-2022
Castiglione Falletto. Concentrated and youthful-looking ruby. Almost intense nose of strawberry compote and cherry. Palate just starting to shake off the red fruit and cherry. Well-balanced acidity with a pinch of oak on a powerfully tannic finish. (WS)
Fratelli Cavallotto, Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe Riserva 2004 Barolo 17.5 Drink 2013-2020
Castiglione Falletto. Dark ruby with almost no sign of maturation. Impressive amarene cherry and spice. Palate still backward, but very concentrated without being sweet. Chewy, rich tannin. (WS)
Francesco Sobrero, Pernanno Riserva 2004 Barolo 14.5 Drink 2011-2014
Castiglione Falletto. Medium-deep ruby with small orange rim. Very herbal and a whiff of farmyard dominating the fruit. (WS)
COMUNE DI MONFORTE D'ALBA
Marziano Abbona, Pressenda 2006 Barolo 15.5 Drink 2014-2018
Monforte d'Alba. Youthful-looking medium-concentrated ruby. Slightly alcoholic, herbal and dark. Astringent and seems to lack a tad of concentration on the mid palate. Forceful tannins on the finish, but fruit sweetness shines through. (WS)
Fratelli Alessandria, Gramolere 2006 Barolo 15.5 Drink 2012-2016
Monforte d'Alba. Deep ruby just starting to open up on the rim. Serious and pronounced chocolate. Sweet attack, with energetic acidity, but finish seems slightly monotonous. (WS)
Gianfranco Alessandria, San Giovanni 2006 Barolo 15.5 Drink 2013-2018
Monforte d'Alba. Deep, concentrated ruby with the beginning of orange reflexes. Mere hints of caramel, molasses and fruitcake, cedar, pinch of leather. Palate shows much the same, perhaps lacking somewhat in complexity and depth. Warm finish, dominated by fierce tannin. (WS)
Gianfranco Alessandria 2006 Barolo 16 Drink 2012-2018
Monforte d'Alba. Deep, concentrated ruby. Very pretty optic. Ripe and open knit, peppery dried-fruit nose with hint of cinnamon bark. Sweet, rich attack. Not the most complex of wines, but ripe and balanced with lovely acidic twist on the finish. (WS)
Ballarin 2006 Barolo 15.5 Drink 2012-2017
Monforte d'Alba. Medium-deep glossy ruby with broader rim. Open knit, sweet and seductive. Hint of cough syrup. Not the most complex of wines as dried-fruit character and herb liqueur flavours dominate. Alcohol makes tannins look slightly sharp at this stage. (WS)
Barale, Bussia 2006 Barolo 16.5 Drink 2014-2020
Monforte d'Alba. Pale, medium ruby with very broad garnet rim. Marmite and herbs and hint of cacao powder. Well balanced if embryonic sweet fruit stage. Massive but fine-grained tannin. Brooding. (WS)
Silvano Bolmida, Bussia 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2012-2017
Monforte d'Alba. Medium-concentrated ruby with broad garnet rim. Ever so slightly medicinal and oaky. Drying tannins dominate a light fruit palate. Gentle, with fragrant fruit palate. Tannins seem a burden. (WS)
Silvano Bolmida, Vigne dei Fantini 2006 Barolo 16.5 Drink 2014-2020
Monforte d'Alba. Deep, attractive ruby with broad rim. Cedar notes and Moroccan leather. Perhaps just a touch of horse saddle. Very young, tight compact palate, with very good balance and length. Ugly duckling stage. (WS)
Colla, Bussia Dardi le Rose 2006 Barolo 14.5 Drink 2012-2014
Monforte d'Alba. Developed ruby. Immediately alcoholic impression on the nose. Slightly hollow on the palate with a big, rustic finish. (WS)
Aldo Conterno, Colonnello 2006 Barolo 15.5 Drink 2012-2015
Monforte d'Alba. Medium-deep ruby with broad rim with just the beginning of orange tinges. Ripe, rustic opulent, and so is the palate with bags of sweet fruit but slightly one dimensional at this stage, due to the oak, it seems. Not without merits though, with an intriguing lingering finish and ongoing tannin. (WS)
Franco Conterno, Bussia Munie 2006 Barolo 16.5 Drink 2012-2020
Monforte d'Alba. Dark, developing ruby. Kitchen spice, dried cherry, alcoholic prickle, and there is some dried fruit/late harvest character, but at the same time shows lots of depth. Garden herbs. Sweet, concentrated attack. Dried fruit notes taking the upper hand, but on a long finish. (WS)
Costa di Bussia, Tenuta Arnulfo 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2012-2018
Monforte d'Alba. Deep centred ruby and just beginning to show orange. Very herbal, hint of pumpernickel. Sweetly extracted, but stubborn. Massively tannic with dark, aromatic length. (WS)
Duecorti 2006 Barolo 16.5 Drink 2014-2020
Monforte d'Alba. Lively garnet with orange tinge. Faintly sweet fruitcake and dried fruit and touch of new leather. Compact, and lingering with grainy tannins. (WS)
Giacomo Fenocchio, Bussia 2006 Barolo 17.5 Drink 2014-2022
Monforte d'Alba. Medium ruby with broad orange rim. Subdued. Very young, tight palate, very backward. Almost port-like richness on the finish, while keeping the balance. Rose-petal hint. (WS)
Fratelli Giacosa, Bussia 2006 Barolo 14.5 Drink 2012-2014
Monforte d'Alba. Maturing shiny ruby, with small, orange rim. Ever so slightly vegetal and sweet. Cough-syrup impressions on the palate and ever so slightly oxidative. (WS)
Elio Grasso, Gavarini Chiniera 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2012-2018
Monforte d'Alba. Bright ruby with orange reflexes. Sweet and ripe, lacking excitement on the finish. Might gain complexity with ageing? (WS)
Pier Paolo Monti, Bussia 2006 Barolo 14.5 Drink 2012-2015
Monforte d'Alba. Pale-ish ruby with watery rim. Immediate, sweet oak nose. Sweet oak dominates the palate too. Lively acidity but it can’t manage the oak-dominated candied sweet fruit. (WS)
Pier Paolo Monti 2006 Barolo 16 Drink 2012-2018
Monforte d'Alba. Pale-ish ruby with watery rim. Quite herbal, but with a lingering flowery, perfumed note too. Intriguing. Very closed and shy on the palate. Good balance, and ripe, coating tannin. Medium acidity. Very good length, without too many layers. (WS)
Parusso, Le Coste Mosconi 2006 Barolo 17.5 Drink 2014-2022
Monforte d'Alba. Medium-concentrated with broad brick rim. Very savoury, salty almost, Oxo cube. Much finer on the palate. Port-like richness, and persistent tannins, which it needs. Very long. (WS)
Parusso, Bussia 2006 Barolo 17 Drink 2012-2018
Monforte d'Alba. Deep ruby, small orange-tinged rim. Roast aromas, notes of cassis liqueur, walnut - very unusual, intriguing. Drying oak tannins at this stage, finish comes in waves. (WS)
Pecchenino, San Giuseppe 2006 Barolo 15.5 Drink 2012-2016
Monforte d'Alba. Deep ruby with orange rim. Very attractive appealing herb and cherry-liqueur nose. Immediate almost. Seems already quite developed on the palate, with sweet dried fruit and slightly astringent tannin. (WS)
Pecchenino, Le Coste 2006 Barolo 16 Drink 2012-2018
Monforte d'Alba. Dark and mature looking ruby. Posh dry oak and garden herb opening, savoury with prune notes. Fairly straightforward style, big on tannins, and ripeness, perhaps lacking in elegance. (WS)
Prunotto, Bussia 2006 Barolo 15.5 Drink 2012-2020
Monforte d'Alba. Deep-centred ruby with broad garnet rim. Very sexy, almost nutty notes. Initial rich, sweet fruit impression swiftly followed by drying tannin. Finish shows good concentration and length without being multilayered at this stage. (WS)
Rocca 2006 Barolo 15.5 Drink 2012-2018
Monforte d'Alba. Medium concentrated, maturing ruby. Crushed cherry and a whiff of saddle, but very appealing. Very closed on the palate. Acidity seems a bit high tuned for the concentration on the mid palate, but grippy tannin and sweet dried-fruit finish give hope. (WS)
Rocca 2006 Barolo 15.5 Drink 2012-2018
Monforte d'Alba. Deep ruby with garnet rim. Compact liquorice fruit. Quite rich, almost preserve-like fruit, but grippy tannins keep it all neatly together. (WS)
Rocche dei Manzoni, Vigna Cappella di Santo Stefano 2006 Barolo 14 Drink 2011-2013
Monforte d'Alba. Deep ruby with small orange-tinged rim. Tar notes and ever so slightly medicinal. Tarry fruit palate, with biting acidity and stalky tannins. Oxidative, and this seems to have robbed it of its charm. (WS)
Rocche dei Manzoni, Big d' Big 2006 Barolo 16.5 Drink 2014-2020
Monforte d'Alba. Deep ruby, with some orange reflexes on the rim. Impressive savoury-sweet nose with a pinch of spice. Lifted. Intense concentration will need lots of time to develop. Rich Mon Cherie finish with fruitcake notes. (WS)
Ruggeri Corsini 2006 Barolo 16.5 Drink 2014-2020
Monforte d'Alba. Very deep, almost dark ruby. Very slow to open up in the glass. Seems almost impenetrable on the palate. Persistent, stalky but well built, ends warm. Doesn’t say a lot now, but very long finish. Tea leaves and savoury notes and fruit sweetness. (WS)
Josetta Saffirio 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2012-2016
Monforte d'Alba. Medium-deep ruby with almost no signs of development on the rim. Dusty oak impression hiding sweet dried-cherry layer. Ripe palate, quite developed, perhaps oxidative, making the finish not overtly complex. Mid-term cellaring? (WS)
Josetta Saffirio, Persiera 2006 Barolo 16 Drink 2014-2020
Monforte d'Alba. Deep ruby and virtually no signs of development on the rim. Subdued, sweet and touch reductive. Sweet but not yet defined or open fruit. A slow burner. (WS)
Simone Scaletta, Chirlet 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2012-2014
Monforte d'Alba. Pale-ish ruby with garnet tinges. Balsamic and herbal, perhaps even slightly vegetal. Caramel-like fruit. Seems tired. (WS)
Seghesio, Vigneto La Villa 2006 Barolo 16.5 Drink 2014-2020
Monforte d'Alba. Dark ruby starting to mature. Very elegant, but at the same time tight on the nose. Lots of concentration and surprisingly soft acidity. Very ripe and mature fruit. Lots of fruit concentration but not alcoholic. (WS)
Stroppiana, Gabutti Bussia 2006 Barolo 15.5 Drink 2013-2018
Monforte d'Alba. Deep, maturing ruby with the beginning of orange. Slightly unfocused leather nose with notes of nutmeg. Needs lots of air. Lingering sweet ripe dried fruit. Tannic! (WS)
Mauro Veglio, Castelletto 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2012-2017
Monforte d'Alba. Deep ruby, small orange rim. Enticing lifted dried cherry, merest hint of cardamom pod. Somewhat less diverse on the palate. Caramel notes on the finish, with big tannins. Slightly rustic. (WS)
COMUNE DI MONFORTE D'ALBA RISERVA
Franco Conterno, Bussia Munie Riserva 2004 Barolo 15 Drink 2011-2018
Monforte d'Alba. Bright orange-tinged ruby with deep centre. Looks quite mature with lots of dried fruit and fruitcake and the first signs of tar. Contrasting high acidity on a sweet fruit palate making the finish somewhat hard. (WS)
Giacomo Fenocchio, Bussia Riserva 2004 Barolo 16.5 Drink 2011-2020
Monforte d'Alba. Bright orange ruby. Very slow to open up. Peppery and subdued. Much more developed and open on the palate with generous red fruits. Less complex on the finish, but very long, nonetheless. (WS)
Gianni Gagliardo, Preve Riserva 2004 Barolo 15 Drink 2012-2016
Monforte d'Alba, Serralunga d'Alba. Very deep ruby with tiny orange rim. Warm, heady and slightly oxidative nose. Old fashioned on the palate too. But acidity pulls it up. Premature maturation, so it seems. (WS)
Josetta Saffirio, Persiera Riserva 2004 Barolo 14.5 Drink 2011-2015
Monforte d'Alba. Deep ruby with only the firsts signs of orange. Pure liquorice and browning apple. Slightly stale fruit palate without a lot of tension. Looks tired. (WS)
COMUNE DI SERRALUNGA D'ALBA
Claudio Alario, Sorano 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2012-2015
Serralunga d'Alba. Concentrated but developed garnet ruby. Firmly presses the very ripe, dried-fruit button, and that’s what you get on the palate too. Rustic and very developed looking. (WS)
Ascheri, Sorano 2006 Barolo 16.5 Drink 2014-2020
Serralunga d'Alba. Medium ruby with broader orange rim. Very fine leather and spice nose and laurel leaf. Extremely embryonic, and unsettled, spiky tannin. Brooding finish promises for the future. (WS)
Ascheri, Sorano Coste e Bricco 2006 Barolo 15.5 Drink 2014-2020
Serralunga d'Alba. Medium-concentrated ruby with watery rim. Quite closed on the nose, and tight on the palate too with lifted acidity and drying tannin. Seems very caught up in itself. Needs lots of air (and cellar time?). (WS)
Azelia, San Rocco 2006 Barolo 15.5 Drink 2012-2018
Serralunga d'Alba. Deep, maturing ruby with very small garnet rim. Cherry pie. Heady, and slightly alcoholic and nutty. Developed palate with nutty fruit, but with very good length, if a touch jammy. (WS)
Brovia, Ca' Mia 2006 Barolo 14.5 Drink 2011-2014
Serralunga d'Alba. Bright ruby, just beginning to show some orange. Very vegetal opening. Very rustic and developed, and slightly rough tannin. (WS)
Cucco, Cerrati Vigna Cucco 2006 Barolo 14.5 Drink 2011-2014
Serralunga d'Alba. Deep centred ruby with bright orange reflexes. Balsamic and raisiny, making the palate look dull. (WS)
Cucco, Cerrati 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2012-2016
Serralunga d'Alba. Very bright, orange ruby. Old school, warm and spicy. Quite sweet too without tremendous depth. High acidity makes the finish somewhat austere. (WS)
Gemma, Colarej 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2012-2015
Serralunga d'Alba. Concentrated ruby with broad garnet hue. Very immediate and sweet and oxidative. Oxidative too on the palate, making the fruit look subdued. (WS)
Ettore Germano, Cerretta 2006 Barolo 15.5 Drink 2012-2019
Serralunga d’alba. Deep ruby with broad brick-stone rim. Slightly stewed, savoury, meaty nose. Quite mature on the palate too, with high acidity unsettling the balance at this stage. (WS)
Ettore Germano, Prapò 2006 Barolo 17.5 Drink 2014-2022
Serralunga d'Alba. Pale-ish ruby with watery garnet rim. Leather notes and kitchen spice at first glance. Subdued but very well balanced palate. Sweet, rich and balanced on the finish too. Old school in its (dried) fruit focus, but impressive in its length and structure. (WS)
Bruna Grimaldi, Badarina 2006 Barolo 16 Drink 2013-2019
Serralunga d'Alba. Deep, maturing ruby with orange rim. Hay, hints of liquorice and lurking, hidden fruit. Seems old school in its dried-fruit spectrum, with massive but very impressive grainy tannin. (WS)
Luisin, Leon 2006 Barolo 15.5 Drink 2012-2016
Serralunga d'Alba. Deep ruby with orange tinges. Opulent candied fruit and tea-leaf nose with shy cherry fruit. Cherry cake palate and ever so slightly tawny port like finish. (WS)
Paolo Manzone, Meriame 2006 Barolo 15.5 Drink 2012-2016
Serralunga d'Alba. Medium-deep garnet ruby. Lifted orange peel and a whiff of tar. Lifted acidity on a sweet dried-fruit palate. Crunchy persistent tannins. Lengthy finish but not the most elaborate of wines. (WS)
Paolo Manzone, Serralunga 2006 Barolo 14.5 Drink 2012-2015
Serralunga d'Alba. Deep, mature-looking ruby. Nutty sweet fruit and rustic tannins. Liqueur-like. Slightly dull? (WS)
Massolino, Parafada 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2012-2018
Serralunga d'Alba. Very deep ruby. Well-balanced oak nose, but not very typical. Very sweet, and at the same time reluctant fruit. Seems to struggle with its split personality. (WS)
Massolino, Margheria 2006 Barolo 16 Drink 2013-2019
Serralunga d'Alba. Deep, almost violet-looking ruby - odd. Fine but international. Whiff of bacon. Concentrated cherry fruit, and tobacco hints. Complex, very young still, very fine drying tannin. (WS)
Palladino, Serralunga 2006 Barolo 17 Drink 2014-2020
Serralunga d'Alba. Medium-concentrated ruby with broad garnet rim. Lively, almost juicy great grip, balance and sweetness. Elegance and power. (WS)
Pio Cesare, Ornato 2006 Barolo 14.5 Drink 2012-2016
Serralunga d'Alba. Deep centred ruby with very small rim showing some orange. Lashes of vanilla and roasted notes, which Nebbiolo fruit doesn’t hold up to. (WS)
Luigi Pira, Marenca 2006 Barolo 16 Drink 2012-2018
Serralunga d'Alba. Deep, concentrated and youthful-looking ruby despite small orange rim. Heady perfumed and with a firm kiss of oak. International on the palate too, but high-tuned acidity turns up on the finish. Invigorating despite oak and sweet fruit. (WS)
Guido Porro, Vigna S Caterina 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2012-2017
Serralunga d'Alba. Pale-ish garnet ruby. Sweet fruit and pastry opening and walnut skin. Mouthful of ripe, dried fruit and edgy tannins. (WS)
Guido Porro, Vigna Lazzairasco 2006 Barolo 16 Drink 2014-2020
Serralunga d'Alba. Very pale ruby, watery orange rim. Slightly medicinal and very closed. Lovely lightness of touch and sweet crunchiness on the finish. (WS)
Rivetto, Serralunga 2006 Barolo 16 Drink 2012-2018
Serralunga d'Alba. Very deep dark ruby. Brooding, savoury, meaty. In a way polished and concentrated, if not very complex. (WS)
Gigi Rosso, Arione 2006 Barolo 13 Drink 2011-2012
Serralunga d'Alba. Deep ruby, small garnet rim. Oxidized, and so is the second sample. Slightly dull fruit palate. (WS)
Giovanni Rosso, Serralunga 2006 Barolo 17 Drink 2014-2022
Serralunga d'Alba. Deep ruby with orange tinges. Very slow to open up. Hints of tawny port. Very compact and powerful, powdery tannins. Very good length and freshness and at the same time bold. (WS)
Giovanni Rosso, Cerretta 2006 Barolo 14.5 Drink 2011-2015
Serralunga d'Alba. Medium-concentrated ruby. Cough syrup and fruitcake. Not the most complex of palates and really sweet on the finish. (WS)
San Biagio, Sorano 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2012-2018
Serralunga d'Alba. Deep medium-concentrated ruby. Ever so slightly dusty, with sweet dried cherry and herb liqueur. Good mouthful of fruit but not the most complex. (WS)
Schiavenza, Broglio 2006 Barolo 15 Drink 2012-2016
Serralunga d'Alba. Bright, maturing ruby with brick-stone rim. Subdued, ever so slightly dusty but not without interest. Less so on the palate, a tad simple. (WS)
Schiavenza, Prapò 2006 Barolo 14 Drink 2011-2015
Serralunga d'Alba. Medium deep ruby and brick-stone rim. Pastry and cream nose. Very sweet, very ‘truccato’ – wearing lots of makeup. (WS)
G D Vajra, Cerretta Luigi Baudana 2006 Barolo 15.5 Drink 2014-2018
Serralunga d'Alba. Deep and still youthful-looking ruby. Savoury, minerally but subdued. Very rich, porty attack, very backward and a touch alcoholic. (WS)
COMUNE DI SERRALUNGA D'ALBA RISERVA
Ettore Germano, Lazzarito Riserva 2004 Barolo 17.5 Drink 2014-2022
Serralunga d'Alba. Deep maturing ruby with brick-stone rim. Developed but multilayered. Much less developed on the palate, but rich finish, complex finish. A baby, really. (WS)
Massolino, Vigna Rionda Riserva 2004 Barolo 15 Drink 2012-2018
Serralunga d'Alba. Deep ruby, broad garnet rim. Very mature, with whiff of leather, perhaps even farmyard. Intense sweet attack, but no real depth nor complexity. Ever so slightly oxidative. (WS)
Rivetto, Arione Riserva 2004 Barolo 15 Drink 2011-2018
Serralunga d'Alba. Deep concentrated ruby. Ever so slightly stewed. Cherry fruit on the finish. Very good length and despite formidable tannic structure quite approachable. (WS)
Gigi Rosso, Arione dell'Ulivo Riserva 2004 Barolo 15.5 Drink 2011-2018
Serralunga d'Alba. Concentrated orange-tinged ruby. Opens up quite vegetal and ever so slightly oxidative. Very mellow fruitcake palate with orange peel notes. Very long and accessible. (WS)
Schiavenza, Broglio Riserva 2004 Barolo 16 Drink 2011-2018
Serralunga d'Alba. Very deep concentrated ruby. Liquorice, and dried-fruit palate, held together by succulent acidity. Good length, straightforward. (WS)
Schiavenza, Prapò Riserva 2004 Barolo 15 Drink 2012-2018
Serralunga d'Alba. Deep ruby with small brick-stone rim. Backward, with a touch of leather, walnut skin, tea leaves. Tarry fruit impression paired with a massive structure. Seems built for eternity but not very complex (yet). (WS)
NEBBIOLO PRIMA - BARBARESCO 2007S AND 2005 RISERVA
The commune of Barbaresco, which was the focus of day one and much of the morning of day two of the four-day Nebbiolo Prima tastings in Piemonte has traditionally been described as more feminine and lighter than its more famous neighbour, Barolo. This is reflected by its regulations, which are less restrictive than those for Barolo, demanding a lower alcoholic content of 12.5% compared with the minimum of 13% for Barolo and, tellingly, slightly less extract (22 g/l compared with 23 g/l). In reality, the wines are rarely under 13.5% and more often than not easily reach 14% without jeopardising the balance. But the most eye-catching difference between these two famous wines is in the age requirements: Barbaresco can be put onto the market in January of the third year after the vintage, with only one mandatory year in oak cask, whereas Barolo has to be kept for an additional year, with a minimum of two years in total spent in oak. All this seems to support the contention that Barbaresco needs lighter handling, but it seems more likely that this impression is the result of its history and the vinification techniques used rather than of Barbaresco's inherent qualities.Barbaresco's name did not appear on labels until 1894 when Domizio Cavazza, at that time professor at the Oenological School of Alba, founded the Cantina Sociale di Barbaresco (now the much admired Cantina di Produttori di Barbaresco), and the same year in which the first Barbaresco wine appeared under its own name. Apparently, before this date the wines from the town of Barbaresco were often blended with Barolo, as the latter had previously refused to incorporate the vineyards of the town into the Barolo demarcation. Therefore, Barolo became, perhaps unwillingly, instrumental in the creation of Barbaresco.
As Barbaresco had become a designation its own right, Cavazza aimed at producing a style of wine that would set it stylistically somewhat apart from its direct neighbour. Allegedly, this idea lies at the root of the perception of Barbaresco being 'lighter'. Except for the fact that Barbaresco's history is much more recent than Barolo, the actual area of Barbaresco devoted to Nebbiolo is also much smaller than that in Barolo (684 ha compared with 1,826 ha, all data from Camera di Commercio Industria Artigianato ed agricuoltura di Cuneo Albo Vigneti 2009). Land within Barbaresco also produces Barbera d'Alba, Dolcetto d'Alba and Asti respectively from its 364 ha of Barbera vines, 425 ha of Dolcetto and 556ha of Moscato. All this leads to the image of Barbaresco as 'Barolo's smaller neighbour'.
Although soil differences between Barolo and Barbaresco are regularly advanced as another major factor in the style difference, broadly speaking there are more similarities than differences. Barbaresco's soils consist of calcareous clay of the Tortonion epoch, a soil type also found in La Morra and Barolo, and considered to produce a softer, more fruit-driven style, whereas soils in Monforte d'Alba and Serralunga d'Alba (both within the Barolo zone) have a higher content of sandstone, yielding more tannic wines. And although these stylistic difference are real, and more or less a given, some communes in Barolo are considered to produce wines more akin to Barbaresco, and vice versa. Therefore vinification techniques can have enormous impact on the final wines, not least the length of time the wine remains on the skins. The longer this period is, the more tannins and polyphenols will be leached out, resulting in much more structured wines, wines that invariably need longer time in cask to soften.
Although the image of a lighter, faster-maturing wine style clings to Barbaresco to this day, it did not entirely reflect my impressions after I had tasted the 2007 straight Barbarescos and the 2005 Riservas. Or, rather, I got the impression that it was more owing to the character of the 2007 vintage that the wines seemed quite straightforward and sometimes even evolved and somewhat alcoholic on the finish. What was often in evidence was the dreaded dried fruit character which I associate with hot vintage conditions, in which part of the fruit gets sunburnt, or with an unbalanced vintage in which sugar levels soar while tannic ripeness lacks behind. In order to achieve softer, rounder tannins, the vintage is postponed to reach that all-important ripeness level, but on the way the freshness of the fruit can be sacrificed. The 2007 vintage, although not comparable with 2003, did not entirely escape irregular heat. If anything, the 2007s may prove to be a perfect introduction to Nebbiolo for novices.
Disliking dried fruit aromas in Nebbiolo wines may initially seem rather controversial, especially as they feature so frequently in tasting notes and descriptions of Barolo and Barbaresco, particularly after extended cellaring. A touch of dried-fruit character can add a layer of complexity, but if the nose is dominated by these aromas, it makes the wines look tired, while potentially impairing the wine's ageability. Although Nebbiolo's famous tannic structure and naturally high acidity seems to render the wines virtually indestructible, such aromas may not necessarily add to complexity during extended cellaring, especially if in relatively young samples one notices the telltale whiff of browning apple, the first signs of oxidation. That oxidative note, by the way, I often encounter in combination with generous oak treatment. Although it can make the wine look more open and charming, especially when young, it also makes them more one-dimensional.
Having said that, most Barbaresco producers are extremely talented in using oak in a fashion that becomes the wine, rather than smothering it. In cases where oak is used over-zealously, the wines invariably seem to be designed to appeal to the international palate, and are slightly formulaic. However, Nebbiolo is almost always is capable of adding freshness and tannic impact to a wine, preventing it from becoming too pastiche-like.
Vintage 2007
The 2007 vintage was determined by a very irregular weather pattern. After a very mild winter, flowering began more than 20 days earlier than in the previous year. A cool period during the growing cycle slowed things down. July was hot with several very hot spells, and virtually no rain, affecting some of the bunches with sunburn and partially arresting the ripening process in the berries. August proved more benign with cooler, below-average temperatures, but the growing cycle did not significantly slow down, although a hail storm in Barbaresco on 3 Aug reduced the crop by 10-20%. As temperatures stayed cool during the rest of the month, fungal disease pressure was very limited. The harvest started mid September under perfect conditions, with high sugar levels in the berries and less acidity than usual. Although the vintage is not comparable to 2003 since August was much cooler in 2007, the wines are expected to mature relatively early, and are considered to have only medium cellaring potential. I found many wines of which this was true but there were also some true gems which showed real ageing potential and great stature.
Vintage 2005
The samples shown of Barbaresco Riserva 2005 were much less numerous and so generalisations are more difficult. The season started regularly, but temperatures crept up fast in June, which was warmer than average. But the first half of July was much cooler, and only during the second half did it become intensely hot. In August things literally cooled off. September was relatively even, although night time temperatures did not fall sufficiently to give usefully cool mornings. Grape skins were thinner than average, with less concentration of polyphenols. Harvest started at the end of September.
BARBARESCO 2007
Orlando Abrigo, Montersino 2007 Barbaresco 15 Drink 2010-2014
Treiso. Youthful crimson. Baking spice and peppery dark fruit. Juicy palate but tannins take over. May be for the long haul. Touch bitter too. Food! (WS)
Orlando Abrigo, Vigna Rongalio Meruzzano 2007 Barbaresco 17 Drink 2010-2017
Treiso. Deep, almost crimson-like ruby. Garden herbs and candied peel, almost meaty. Powerful but compact palate with lovely acidity. Closed and youthful, this deserves time. Touch of vanilla on the finish? (WS)
Marco e Vittorio Adriano 2007 Barbaresco 15 Drink 2010-2013
Alba. Pale but youthful rim. Bread-dough-like nose. Inexpressive on the palate. No real excitement, and astringent. (WS)
Marco e Vittorio Adriano, Basarin 2007 Barbaresco 14 Drink 2010-2013
Neive. Paleish, deep ruby. Vegetal, sweet-sour nose. Brett? Very sweet but sharp palate and strange creamy malolactic finish. (WS)
Albino Rocca 2007 Barbaresco 17 Drink 2011-2017
Alba. Pale, mature ruby. Brooding and quite backward on the palate. Shows great balance and very fine, ongoing waves of tannin. Will need at least some years to open up. (WS)
Albino Rocca, Vigneto Brich Ronchi 2007 Barbaresco 17.5 Drink 2012-2020
Barbaresco. Pale, youthful ruby. Backward, but with focused red fruit and ripeness. Has lots of class, despite the slightly astringent tannins and will need much more time. (WS)
Antichi Poderi dei Gallina, L Ciaciaret 2007 Barbaresco 16.5 Drink 2010-2017
Neive. Medium ruby with broad rim. Very sweet with expensive oaky edge. Some oxidative notes as well. Dumb on the palate, but concentration is there. (WS)
Barale, Serraboella 2007 Barbaresco 14.5 Drink 2010-2013
Neive. Paleish youthful ruby. Slightly reductive sweet fruit-cake nose. Very sweet, dried-fruit palate. Drying finish. Seems unbalanced. (WS)
Cantina Sociale dei Produttori del Barbaresco 2007 Barbaresco 14.5 Drink 2010-2013
Barbaresco. Pale but youthful-looking ruby. Liquorice fruit. Rustic, perhaps even coarse, on the finish. (WS)
Battaglio 2007 Barbaresco 15? Drink 2012-2016
Neive. Medium-concentrated ruby, with deeper centre. Upfront, sweet fruit nose with a faint hint of horse saddle? Stubborn palate, determined at this stage by stalky tannins. Asleep? (WS)
Bel Colle, Roncaglie 2007 Barbaresco 17 Drink 2012-2018
Barbaresco. Medium-deep ruby with broad rim. Elegant if somewhat closed, it pulls you into the glass. Palate has the same kind of restrained appeal. Balance, and freshness. Not ostentatious. Quite tannic, looks old school, but lots of potential here. (WS)
Bricco Grilli, Serragrilli 2007 Barbaresco 14 Drink 2010-2013
Neive. Mature-looking concentrated ruby. Browning-apple nose and Christmas pudding. Very sweet, very confected. (WS)
Ca` del Baio, Valgrande 2007 Barbaresco 15 Drink 2010-2014
Treiso. Concentrated ruby with orange tinge on a broad rim. The nose opens up slowly, but the palate seems not to offer anything more in complexity. (WS)
Ca` del Baio, Assili 2007 Barbaresco 16 Drink 2011-2017
Barbaresco. Pale, youthful-looking ruby. Reluctant, backward nose. And very closed on the palate, very compact, but with very good balance, with fine-grained but persistent tannins. Some oak impact on the finish, but well made. (WS)
Ca` du Rabajà, Rabajà 2007 Barbaresco 16.5 Drink 2010-2017
Barbaresco. Medium-concentrated ruby with broad rim showing orange tinge. Savoury dried fruit opening up. Lots of concentration on the palate and lots of tannins too, but fruit stands up effortlessly. Perhaps ever so slightly jammy on the finish, but very long. (WS)
Ca` du Rabajà 2007 Barbaresco 15 Drink 2010-2014
Neive-Barbaresco. Mature-looking medium concentrated ruby. Quite oaky, vanilla nose with lots of dried fruit and aniseed notes. Fruit doesn’t really make a big impression on the palate either. (WS)
La Ca` Nova, Montestefano 2007 Barbaresco 15.5 Drink 2010-2015
Barbaresco. Brilliant, palish ruby with broad rim. Quite big nose, developed too, with caramel and tar notes. Same developed fruit on the palate with what looks like the impact of oak. Modernist but lacks depth, perhaps? (WS)
Ca` Rome`, Sori Rio Sordo 2007 Barbaresco 14.5 Drink 2010-2013
Barbaresco. Medium-deep ruby with orange reflexes. At first dried-fruit impressions, but with air becomes more complex. Perhaps ever so slightly oxidative, which is confirmed on the palate. (WS)
Castello di Neive, Santo Stefano 2007 Barbaresco 15 Drink 2010-2016
Neive. Paleish ruby. Open knit and ever so slightly stewed. Sweet, jammy fruit attack. Very popular. Crunchy tannins add much-needed bite. (WS)
Castello di Neive 2007 Barbaresco 15.5 Drink 2010-2016
Neive. Paleish ruby, more concentrated in the centre. Well-developed nose of dried fruit and baking spice and hints of vanilla. Sweet fruit attack, with good persistence and aromatics. Uncomplicated. (WS)
Castello di Verduno 2007 Barbaresco 16.5 Drink 2010-2017
Barbaresco. Pale ruby starting to open up. Very slow to show rich cherry fruit. Very concentrated and sweet attack, and same richness on the palate. Genuinely fruit driven with gripping tannin, but elegant finish. (WS)
Michele Chiarlo, Asili 2007 Barbaresco 15 Drink 2010-2014
Barbaresco. Deep concentrated ruby. Cherry and herb liqueur and hints of browning apple. Second sample is identical. Makes the fruit look ever so slightly stale. (WS)
Cigliuti, Vigne Erte 2007 Barbaresco 15 Drink 2010-2014
Neive. Very dark and deep ruby. Raisiny and hints of cut apple. Tired? (WS)
Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Gresy 2007 Barbaresco 17.5 Drink 2010-2018
Barbaresco. Very pale orange ruby. Seems already quite developed, but hugely seductive nose. Palate much less evolved but finish is aromatic and comes in waves. (WS)
Colla, Roncaglie 2007 Barbaresco 15.5 Drink 2010-2015
Barbaresco. Concentrated ruby only just starting to open up on the rim. Vanilla pod and sweet sour cherry. Sweet oak and cherry fruit palate. Modern school but shows freshness too. On the finish the oak impact restraints the fruit, though. (WS)
Giuseppe Cortese, Rabajà 2007 Barbaresco 16.5 Drink 2012-2018
Barbaresco. Very pale ruby. Herbal, perhaps a touch of farmyard and hints of strawberry jam. Very closed palate, with compact cherry and strawberry fruit. Shows great promise. Grainy and slightly restless tannin at the moment. (WS)
Elia, Serracapelli 2007 Barbaresco 15 Drink 2010-2015
Neive. Very dark and purplish ruby. Very flirty, very international and even jammy. International palate, but will be hard to sell as such as tannins kick in. Vanilla finish. (WS)
Feyles 2007 Barbaresco 13 Drink up
Neive. Concentrated ruby with orange beginnings. Very heavily browning apple. Second sample is not much better. Also some VA? Tired palate robbed of fruit. (WS)
Elio Filippino, San Cristoforo 2007 Barbaresco 16.5 Drink 2010-2018
Neive. Deep almost dark ruby. Posh dark fruit and oak nose. Enticing and quite international in a way. Fruit has depth and even complexity but struggles with the drying tannins at this stage. Should have a good future. (WS)
Fontanabianca, Sori Burdin 2007 Barbaresco 16.5 Drink 2012-2018
Neive. Developed ruby with orange tinge. Leathery oak nose. Round fruit impression, but closes up quickly. Elegant finish with lots of grainy tannins. Will need more time. (WS)
Francone, I Patriarchi 2007 Barbaresco 15.5 Drink 2010-2015
Neive. Paleish orange ruby. Earth and ever so slightly raisiny, but not unappealing. Astringent and slightly bitter. Not very complex, and crying out for food. Alcoholic too. (WS)
La Ganghija 2007 Barbaresco 15.5 Drink 2010-2015
Treiso. Medium deep, youthful ruby. Intense dried fruit and incense, also resonating on the palate. Good balance, slightly rustic tannins. (WS)
Carlo Giacosa, Montefico 2007 Barbaresco 17 Drink 2013-2018
Barbaresco. Quite youthful, medium-deep ruby. Oatmeal and faintly cherry like. Very youthful and compact on the palate. Will need quite a lot of time to develop but balance is there and length, as well as focused cherry fruit. Very backward. (WS)
Fratelli Giacosa, Basarin 2007 Barbaresco 16 Drink 2010
Neive. Paleish ruby with broad rim. Subdued, dusty nose. Fruit tries hard to absorb the oak. Sweet finish, with good length, but no great finesse. Appealing in an idiosyncratic way. (WS)
Fratelli Giacosa, Basarin Vigna Gianmate 2007 Barbaresco 14.5 Drink 2010-2015
Neive. Pale ruby. Lashes of sweet oak. Sweet oak has smothered the fruit too. Candy finish. (WS)
Fratelli Grasso, Vallegrande 2007 Barbaresco 17 Drink 2010-2017
Treiso. Medium-concentrated ruby. Intoxicating, opulent cherry and herbs, but at the same time not without elegance. Concentration on the palate too and very good balance. Ends quite sweet and closes up quickly. (WS)
Ugo Lequio, Gallina 2007 Barbaresco 16.5 Drink 2011-2017
Neive. Medium-concentrated ruby. Perfumed and sweet and already quite accessible judging from the nose, but certainly not on the palate. Very nice acidic structure and fierce tannin hiding the fruit. Fragrant finish indicates there is more to come. (WS)
Eredi Lodali, Lorens 2007 Barbaresco 17 Drink 2010-2017
Treiso. Deep ruby. Pretty, if popular, peppery new-oak nose. Very tight and young, but good freshness and length. A baby, really. (WS)
Luisin, Sori Paolin 2007 Barbaresco 16 Drink 2010-2017
Neive. Very deep, dark ruby. Mature, full on, with tobacco-leaf notes – quick development? Dried-fruit palate and slightly astringent, but with length. Warm finish. (WS)
Luisin, Rabajà 2007 Barbaresco 16.5 Drink 2012-2018
Barbaresco. Savoury with marmite notes, and very ripe fruit, tea leaves, and some browning apple. Very compact and taut on the palate, and at the same time slightly oxidative. Old school, it seems, but not without merit and very good length. (WS)
Marchesi di Barolo, Serragrilli 2007 Barbaresco 17 Drink 2011-2018
Neive. Very deep, youthful-looking ruby. Classic, austere nose of tea leaves, candied peel. Touch alcoholic too. Very closed and tight on the palate, with sweet oak edge, but genuine fruit too. Well made. (WS)
Massimo Penna, Sori Sartu 2007 Barbaresco 15 Drink 2010-2014
Alba. Pale developed ruby with broad rim. Minty cherry and mincemeat nose. Very sweet, very developed palate. Accessible, but it seems without great potential. Drink earlier rather than later. (WS)
Moccagatta, Bric Balin 2007 Barbaresco 15 Drink 2010-2014
Barbaresco. Mature medium ruby. Savoury, meaty and candy-like nose. Similar palate without great tension or depth, but with length. Perhaps a touch too stewed for my liking though, and oak impact makes it look commercial. (WS)
Moccagatta, Basarin 2007 Barbaresco 15 Drink 2010-2015
Neive. Deep concentrated ruby with orange tinge. Slightly forced, with sweet fruit and vanilla, developed too. Sweet and popular, ends sweet. Designed for the international market? (WS)
Molino, Teorema 2007 Barbaresco 15 Drink 2010-2015
Alba. Medium deep, youthful ruby. Meaty, almost savoury nose. Very reluctant, shy to open up. Palate somewhat defined by creamy malolactic impression. Sweet but closed finish. Tad bitter too. (WS)
Molino, Ausario 2007 Barbaresco 17 Drink 2010-2017
Treiso. Youthful ruby. Although firmly in the dried-fruit spectrum, this is quite complex. Very closed palate though. Spicy oak somewhat takes the upper hand on the drying finish, but fruit has the last word. (WS)
Montaribaldi, Soeri Montaribaldi 2007 Barbaresco 15 Drink 2010-2014
Barbaresco. Concentrated ruby with some sign of age. Slightly tired-looking nose with tarry, savoury notes. Seems not entirely ripe. Palate much more lively, if tannic. (WS)
Montaribaldi, Palazzina 2007 Barbaresco 16 Drink 2012-2017
Neive. Very deep concentrated ruby, with narrow orange rim. Oak driven, oatmeal. Palate shows very compact and tight fruit with orange peel. Drying oak tannins at this stage, but concentration is there. (WS)
Morassino 2007 Barbaresco 15.5 Drink 2010-2015
Barbaresco. Pale ruby. Herb garden, strawberry jam, and ever so slightly metallic? Tea leaves and sweet fruit on the palate. Quite attractive if a tad simple, but there is length. (WS)
Morassino, Ovello 2007 Barbaresco 16 Drink 2011-2015
Barbaresco. Medium-concentrated ruby with orange-tinged rim. Herbal at first. Liqueur-like nose. Ever so slightly rough tannins, but fruit holds up. Not the most refined, and certainly wants food, but length is impressive. (WS)
Cantina del Nebbiolo 2007 Barbaresco 14.5 Drink 2010-2014
Neive-Treiso. Medium-deep ruby and rim just starting to show. Earthy, sweet and with sweet-sour fruit notes. Unsettled sweet-sour fruit, with bitter tannin. (WS)
Giuseppe Negro, Pian Cavallo 2007 Barbaresco 15 Drink 2010-2014
Neive. Medium-concentrated ruby. Complex and sweet, firmly pushing the dried-fruit button. Sweet fruit palate, appealing but not very complex. A tad astringent. (WS)
Angelo Negro e Figli, Cascinotta 2007 Barbaresco 17 Drink 2012-2019
Neive. Medium-deep glowing ruby, with orange tinge. Immediate Moroccan-leather nose. Very good mouthfeel, but very closed. Stalky, grainy tannin. Seems to have all the stuffing, now it needs age. (WS)
Pelissero, Nubiola 2007 Barbaresco 15.5 Drink 2010-2015
Treiso. Medium-concentrated crimson. Flirtatious nose with lots of cherry liqueur but there is a herbal note underneath it all. Same accessible fruit on the palate, but tannins kick in making it less generous. Fragrant finish, though. (WS)
Pelissero, Bricco San Giuliano 2007 Barbaresco 14.5 Drink 2010-2013
Neive. Pale ruby with orange glow. Pâtisserie, and lots of it, followed by dried fruit. Will dry out pretty soon? (WS)
Pertinace, Vigneto Nervo 2007 Barbaresco 14.5 Drink 2010-2012
Treiso. Concentrated ruby with first signs of development on the rim. Somewhat monotonous with dried fruit and horse-saddle hints. Palate seems dominated by malolactic creaminess. Ends bitter. (WS)
Pertinace, Marcarini 2007 Barbaresco 16 Drink 2010-2015
Treiso. Pale ruby with broad orange-tinged rim. Lots of sweet fruit here and hints of oak treatment. Definitely modern. Tries to be generous on the palate too, but lacks depth to really pull it off. Crowd pleaser, nonetheless. (WS)
Armando Piazzo, Fratin 2007 Barbaresco 15.5 Drink 2010-2016
Alba. Light orange ruby. Subdued, but with lurking cherry and a touch of raisins. Lifted acidity, but without the fruit concentration to hit a balance. But good fragrant length. (WS)
Cantina del Pino 2007 Barbaresco 15 Drink 2010-2014
Neive-Barbaresco. Very pale ruby with very broad rim. Elegant, sweet soft spice nose. More fruit impressions on the palate. Caramel finish making it look rather commercial, and somewhat lacking in personality. (WS)
Prunotto 2007 Barbaresco 15 Drink 2010-2014
Neive-Treiso-Barbaresco. Very pale, orange tinged. Vegetal sweet nose, horse saddle as well. Herbal fruit palate. Doubtful this will develop from the ugly-duckling stage it is in. (WS)
Punset, Basarin 2007 Barbaresco 15 Drink 2010-2016
Neive. Medium-deep ruby, developing, with broad orange-tinged rim. Perfumed and brooding. Sweet fruit palate. No great complexity here, with rough-edged tannins. Slightly alcoholic too, but fruit sweetness on the finish proves very seductive. (WS)
Punset, Camp Quadro 2007 Barbaresco 16 Drink 2010-2016
Neive. Dark, developing ruby. Complex, with oak component. The first signs of tobacco and tar might indicate quick development. Very accessible palate with juicy fruit impressions. Oxidative winemaking rendering it more open? (WS)
Rattalino, Quarantadue 42 2007 Barbaresco 15 Drink 2010-2015
Barbaresco. Pale but youthful-looking ruby. Slow to open up, and somewhat alcoholic on the nose too. Very slow to open up on the palate. Lacks fruit concentration to match the tannic structure. (WS)
Ressia, Canova 2007 Barbaresco 15.5? Drink 2010-2015
Neive. Dark, medium-concentrated ruby with narrow orange rim. Sweet, balsamic, fruitcake nose. Dried-fruit palate but with quite attractive tannins. Oxidative style on purpose? (WS)
Pietro Rinaldi, San Cristoforo 2007 Barbaresco 15.5 Drink 2010-2015
Neive. Dark ruby with lighter broader rim. Soft sweet pâtisserie nose. Somewhat linear sweet, fruit cake and pâtisserie palate. What the Italians call truccato – with make up on. But crunchy tannic structure saving the day. (WS)
Rivetti Massimo, Froi 2007 Barbaresco 17 Drink 2012-2018
Neive. Light ruby, with broad orange rim. Peppery but multilayered with perfumed dried cherry and a touch of leather. Very young and tight, but it’s got the stuffing, and the length. Stormy tannin, but good structure and potential. Quite dry finish. (WS)
Rizzi, Pajore 2007 Barbaresco 16.5 Drink 2010-2016
Treiso. Very pale ruby. Quite powerful cherry fruit nose. Not shy on the palate either. Great fruit length with grainy tannins adding a pleasant bitterness to the finish. Very good. (WS)
Rizzi, Nervo Fondetta 2007 Barbaresco 16 Drink 2010-2015
Treiso. Very pale orange ruby. Fragrant sweet perfumed cherry nose. Talcum powder and liquorice notes too. Tight and compact, and with soft strawberry notes. Bitter but ripe tannins. (WS)
Bruno Rocca, Rabaja 2007 Barbaresco 16.5 Drink 2012-2017
Barbaresco. Medium deep ruby with brick tinges. Meaty, savoury, with lots of sweet, almost jammy, fruit on the palate. Very modern, crowd-pleasing, sweet and with some oak impact on the finish but tannins prevent it from going over the top. (WS)
Bruno Rocca 2007 Barbaresco 15 Drink 2010-2014
Barbaresco. Pale orange ruby. Savoury and somewhat tired on the nose. Astringent tannins. (WS)
Cascina della Rose, Rio Sordo 2007 Barbaresco 14.5 Drink 2010-2013
Barbaresco. Very pale orange. Looks tired and alcoholic. Fading fruit on the palate seems to struggle with the structure and high acidity. (WS)
Cascina della Rose, Tre Stelle 2007 Barbaresco 15 Drink 2010-2013
Barbaresco. Very mature-looking pale orange ruby. Leathery stewed-fruit nose. Somewhat tired on the palate too, with acidity shooting through the light fruit. (WS)
Cascina Saria 2007 Barbaresco 13 Drink 2010-2013
Neive. Shiny, medium-concentrated ruby with broader rim, orange tinges. Browning-apple nose. Oxidation has stripped the fruit from this wine. (WS)
Antica Casa Vinicola Scarpa, Tettineive 2007 Barbaresco 17 Drink 2012-2018
Neive. Pale ruby with broad orange-tinged rim. Classic, fragrant and taut at the same time. Initially sweet, with thunderous tannin. Closes up, but concentration is there. Just reluctant at this stage. (WS)
Sottimano, Cotta 2007 Barbaresco 17 Drink 2012-2018
Neive. Deep ruby. Sexy sweet dried-fruit nose, but more complex than it sounds. Full, sweet fruit attack. Lots of extract and length. Very tannic but integrates on the finish. (WS)
Sottimano, Pajore 2007 Barbaresco 15.5 Drink 2010-2014
Treiso. Medium-deep ruby, with lighter rim. Very sweet, open-knit nose, peppery. Much the same on the palate. Pleasant but not very complex. Tannins somewhat rough and astringent. (WS)
La Spinona di Berutti Pietro, Bricco Faset 2007 Barbaresco 14.5 Drink 2010-2012
Barbaresco. Medium-concentrated ruby with the first beginning of orange on the rim. Vegetal, Brett? Looks like that is also the reason why there is not a lot of fruit. (WS)
Michele Taliano, Ad Altiora 2007 Barbaresco 15.5 Drink 2010-2016
Alba. Very deep, concentrated youthful ruby. Big if vegetal nose of fruit cake and baking spice. Sweet, but slightly nondescript palate. Seems to open up more on the finish. Rustic tannin. (WS)
Terre da Vino, La Casa in Collina 2007 Barbaresco 16 Drink 2010-2015
Treiso. Light ruby with broad orange-tinged rim. Firmly closed on the nose, only a hint of spice. Very backward on the palate too. Slow to open up, but ongoing aromatic echoes. Should develop well. (WS)
Vigin, Noemy 2007 Barbaresco 14.5 Drink 2010-2014
Treiso. Very pale ruby. Nose is dominated by caramel and mocha notes. Popular style on the palate too. (WS)
BARBARESCO RISERVA 2005
Marco e Vittorio Adriano, Basarin Riserva 2005 Barbaresco 15 Drink 2011-2015
Neive. Deep ruby with narrow orange-tinged rim. Nose slow to open up. Peppery, reductive. Lots of drying tannins, and very little coming from the fruit at this stage. (WS)
Cantina Sociale dei Produttori del Barbaresco, Rio Sordo Riserva 2005 Barbaresco 17.5 Drink 2010-2018
Barbaresco. Medium concentration and developing ruby. Very subdued, sweet and lurking. Lots of development on the palate with succulence and gripping tannins. Perhaps a tad drying, but bags of concentration and finesse in the fruit. (WS)
Cantina Sociale dei Produttori del Barbaresco, Pora Riserva 2005 Barbaresco 17 Drink 2012-2018
Barbaresco. Medium-deep ruby with rim just starting to show some orange. Sweet fruit and sweet pastry. Very backward palate, very slow to open up. Astringent tannin, but fruit concentration matches this. (WS)
Casetta, Riserva 2005 Barbaresco 16.5? Drink 2012-2019
Treiso. Concentrated, deep ruby, with narrow, orange-tinged rim. Impressive nose, which unfortunately is plagued by a touch of earthiness (old wood?). Very backward, but with long-lasting flavours and intense but fine tannic impression. (WS)
Giuseppe Nada, Casot Riserva 2005 Barbaresco 14.5 Drink 2010-2014
Treiso. Pale, orange-tinged ruby. Farmyardy opening almost completely covering up the nose. The same is happing on the palate, suppressing fruit character. (WS)
Armando Piazzo, Nervi Vigna Giaia Riserva 2005 Barbaresco 16.5 Drink 2010-2017
Treiso. Mature orange ruby. Mature sweet fruitcake nose, appealing but not overtly complex. Not overtly complex on the palate either, but long lasting and with some very good cherry fruit coming to the fore. (WS)
Dante Rivetti, Bricco Riserva 2005 Barbaresco 15 Drink 2010-2017
Neive. Paleish and developed ruby. Sweet, dried fruit and vanilla-cream hints. Somewhat formulaic on the palate too. Low pitched, trying to be a softy, until drying tannins kick in. (WS)
Rivetti Massimo, Serraboella Riserva 2005 Barbaresco 14.5 Drink 2010-2014
Neive. Concentrated ruby with broad orange rim. Very sweet, with lots of vanilla. Tries hard to please. Overoaked? (WS)